Now I think I'm following you, you're referring to the fact that the white printed "2WD""4HI""4LO" isn't illuminating...correct?

 

Correct!

 

I tested the gray wire(H) to the black wire(G) on the blue connector and got 10vdc. I rotated the dimmer switch up and down and the voltage changed from 10vdc down to 6 and back up so I'm assuming this is means the connections are good and should be enough to power the LED in the switch. Hate gremlins.

 

LOL. I thought you were saying you had a "4WD" light that was in your INSTRUMENT PANEL cluster. That's why myself and another were wondering what the heck you were talking about.

 

Got ya. My brain was fried yesterday trying to figure out how to explain the issue I'm having that's why I posted the picture.

 

Try this. Your being assisted by others already so I won't jump in unless asked:


George

 

Help him out George. You have the '01 data, connector views, ground locations, etc.

EDIT: I'll be in the background in case I see something that might help.

 

I tried to measure resistance between pins G and H on two of my switches, one old and one new, with my multimeter. Neither gave me a reading let alone continuity so either the meter is bad or the bulbs are indeed burned out. I have to remember the used ones are old enough to legally drink in the US and new out of the box doesn't guaranty anything.

I did re-solder the pins on both used switches I have, the original functions much better and the 4HI indicator lamp works perfectly now. The 4HI indicator on the used one I bought did not work and only occasionally would shift the transfer case but after re-soldering the pins it is working flawlessly. Only issue is the illumination lamps do not work on either of them.

So I bought a new meter and tested pins G and H on the switches this morning. Still nothing so I'm leaning towards the bulbs being bad, even on the new switch if it even has a bulb. The truck is gone on a fishing trip to Oregon for a couple weeks so it will be a while before I can report back any progress.

Below is the switch diagram I'm looking at. I really appreciate everyone helping me try to figure out what is causing this issue.

 

So all of the switch functions now work OK and the only thing left is the panel illumination inside the face of the switch/buttons?

George

 

I was pretty amazed when I found those hairline cracks originally that led to writing up that fix thread. I used 10x loop to find them and to be honest I wasn't necessarily even looking for them. I was just trying to see what I could see