okay... I'm going to do that asap. Thanks

 

from what i understood of the smart track what it does is the front axle is engaged but is not powered unless it detects the rear wheels slipping then it starts powering the front. Thats what the guys at the gm dealership basically explained, and it is for any 4wd that has a 3rd 4wd option no matter what its called auto track smart track auto 4x4

 

Right- that's what my understanding of it is too man. I wish I had the NV236 Transfer Case now though, after understand that the "Auto 4wd" feature of the NV236 and the "SmartTrak" system (NV136) operation is the exact same thing... only difference is that with the NV236 t-case- you can TURN OFF the 'Auto 4wd' and allow the truck to run in 2wd High, and get better fuel economy and not have to work about the front axle trying to grab, ever (when not needed). But overall- I am happy with the Bravada. AWD systems have really come a long way since '98... and when comparing to a brand new car (like a Ford Escape or Explorer... or an Acura with SH-AWD...or an Audi, for example) it makes the SmartTrak system look pretty dated.
My SmartTrak seems to be working good now though- I am just having a problem with the rear axle... it seems to be LOCKED/stuck.
Thanks for the input though fellas... We'll see what happens after I check out that rear axle.

 

Wow, the description of the 236 is difficult to understand. I have a 1999 GMC SLT with "Auto 4X4", button also 2hi 4hi 4lo buttons and a way to put it in N by holding two of those for a certain time. Does that mean a 236?

If so, where can I find more info about the 236? I just pulled the front differential, the pinion gear teeth are all GONE! I got a nice low mileage replacement and am about to install it. If the 236 requires certain fluid, I'd like to go the extra effort to do it RIGHT.

 

As clearly stated, both the NV136 & NV236 require GM Autotrac 2 fluid. There are companies that claim to meet the requirements of GM Autotrac 2, but the requirements have not yet been released by GM so how do they know... For the $6-$8 cost of a quart x2, is it worth screwing around with "alternatives".

If you have Auto4wd, you have an NV236. If you want to find more information about the NV236, it's just a google search away. I doubt that anything you find will be any easier to understand than what I have posted above.

 

I have the RPO codes NP3 and F46 in my 1997 Chevy blazer LT. When I purchased the vehicle, We heard a noise coming from the transfer case. The unit was making a grinding noise. We immediately removed the front drive axle and made it into a rear wheel drive vehicle. I've been driving the vehicle like this for about 9 months. I've read that because of this decision, I can now kiss the viscous coupling goodbye. I removed the tag from my transfer case. it had the # 121996, 4472-13, 12541, and 15026806. From my understanding, this is a Borg Werner 4472-13 transfer case. I have the M30 code for the Transmission. I'm going to be going to a huge salvage yard in a few weeks and I'm trying to determine if I'm able to find a NV236 or a NV136 transfer case, will they mount to my transmission? Also, what test can I do to assure me that the transfer case is completely damaged? (other than completely removing it). I also would like to know how to test my actuator?. Is this Transmission electronic? I seen a vacuum hose coming out of it and tried to trace it with no luck.. Strangely enough, I cant seem to find much info on this topic when it comes to the Blazer.. I'm only able to find info on the Bravada. I don't want to drive this winter with this vehicle in this condition. I will be doing a lot more driving and I can not take the chances I took last winter with it.
Any help with this problem is deeply appreciated.. Any information need to help me, please feel free to ask.. Thank you..
P.S. I'm not sure if this is the right thread to post this comment.. if it is.. sorry..