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Old 07-10-2016, 11:55 AM
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Default Shifter linkage cable Problem

Hey, guys. I have apparently had 81 views, but no response to my inquiry on July 7th regarding my column shift lever suddenly going totally out. Perhaps, no one has the solution. I'm thinking it is a broken shift lever cable, so I went to NAPA. They do not list the part, and said I had to get it from the dealer. Maybe so, but I do see some on Amazon and Rock Auto. However, there appears to be some confusion on the correct part number.

Can anyone confirm that ACD# 15189198 is correct for my 1999 4.3 LS column shift, 4x4, 4D?

Also, I could use any advise, tips or videos on a fix. Online & you-tube has been pretty sparse. Thanks in advance.
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Old 07-10-2016, 03:53 PM
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Here's the information from the AC-Delco parts catalog for applications for part # 156189198

I hope that link works.

According to the AC-Delco parts catalog, that one is for a 1998-2005 Blazer/Jimmy as well as the s10 and sonoma pickups from those year, and 1998-2001 Bravada.

So, yes, that appears to be the shift cable for your 1999 Blazer LS 4.3L.

Have you looked at the transmission end of the cable? Those cables rarely break. Usually it's the clip that falls off and it disconnects and falls off the transmission end. If something rusts out and breaks, it could also be the crank piece on the transmission that rusted and broke.
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Old 07-11-2016, 03:48 PM
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Thank you for the confirmation. I really appreciate your response. You were right to a large degree. I found that the grommet hole pin has snapped off at the tip. I was able to reconnect the cable enough to move the shift lever into Park and start and move the Blazer off the street and up the driveway where I can work on it more safely.

Although, the cable is probably OK, I plan to replace it considering the miles on the vehicle. However, I hope there is a fix for the pin, which I assume probably had a **** tip on it. I have now wired and zip-tied the connection so that it appears to function normally. I hope I do not have to drop the transmission pan and replaced the whole shift mechanism, just for the broken connector pin tip. The tip appears to be pressed into a hole on the lever. Would it be possible to drill out the remaining portion and simply insert a bolt and lock-nut the cable on? Would you know how difficult it is to do a complete fix or replacement on the shift unit. What do you actually call that part? Is it after-market available?

Thanks again for the help.
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Old 07-11-2016, 04:36 PM
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There's a repair kit available from Automatic Transmission Factory to repair the shift lever pin.

Check https://www.atfspeed.com/shop/shifte...le-repair-pin/

I'm not affiliated with atfspeed.com or Automatic transmission factory, I just found them on a Google search.
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Old 07-11-2016, 05:03 PM
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Thanks Racer X. I did stumble across this information you provided someone in the past. But, this confirms it may be exactly what I need. It looks like it is do-able for me , as well. I am grateful for the help.
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Old 07-11-2016, 05:04 PM
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Old 07-15-2016, 11:55 AM
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Default Update to shift cable linkage problem

For other Blazer owners who experience a similar problem with their column shift lever, consider the following:

I discovered my problem was due to a broken pin connector on the mechanism on the side of the transmission. I was able to connect the cable to the remaining end of the pin simply by lying on my back on the ground. Then I was able to shift the Blazer into Park, and start it and move it to the garage/ driveway. I then wired and zip tied the connection for temporary use, which allowed it to function normally. After finding I could remove the nut on the bolt that connects the metal lever piece to the transmission so I could grind off the broken pin, I ordered the $21.00 part from ATF, as suggested by the helpful Racer x, earlier in this thread. I am awaiting it's arrival, but I don't expect the total fix to be much of a problem here on out. As stated earlier, apparently the cable itself is rarely the problem. However, I do intend to replace it shortly due to the mileage on the Blazer. Rock Auto seems to have the correct cable for my vehicle, ACD# 15189198, at a fairly reasonable price. The procedure is well described with photos posted earlier in this thread, compliments of rexmburns.

Fortunately, what seemed like a catastrophic problem may turn out to be relatively simply resolved. In my experience, this is rarely the case with the Blazer. I'm keeping my fingers crossed and am grateful for all the fine help from members on this forum. I hope this contributes in some positive way to the forum, as well. I will update this as soon a the fix is complete.
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Old 07-17-2016, 12:11 PM
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Default Shift Likage - Follow-up

Well, I received my Shift Cable Repair Pin from Automatic Transmission Factory as suggested in this forum. However, It does not fit or fix the problem as it is too large for the application. Although, their own site lists this part# SRK-112 as being correct for my 1999 Blazer LS, it is not!

Therefore, I made my own fix with a simple 1 inch stainless steel hex bolt, 2 thin copper washers, and a lock-nut with Thread Lock applied. I tightend just enough to allow a slight amount of "play". The column shifter now moves smoothly and visually appears to function normally at the cable linkage.

It was easy to remover the 15mm nut holding the metal lever that had the broken pin pressed in. I ground down the retaining edge and used a punch to drive out the broken pin. I had to slightly enlarge the hole by drilling in order to use the 1 inch bolt I had.

I still plan to replace the cable shortly, so I will be able to re-assess this fix
at that point. I don't see how this repair is not equal to GM's original design and material. I would be interested in any suggestions that may improve upon this. Hope this helps others, cuz it sucks when your shift lever suddenly fails. This may also serve a a preventive measure for those who believe in MAINTAINANCE.
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Old 07-17-2016, 02:50 PM
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Before you do any permanent repairs, wait for the cable to get to you. The cable might have a new lever on it, and it might be designed to attach with that 15mm nut.

Is the repair pin too big for the hole at the end of the cable? Or is it too big for the hole in the shift lever on the transmission?

I've repaired similar issues by welding a new pin to the shift lever on the transmission. Usually, the hole where the pin is welded to the transmission is smaller in diameter than the pin. That repair pin is designed for that. The big end goes through the end of the shift cable. The small end goes through the shift lever and the clip goes on the back of the shift lever to hold it in place.

Bolts should always be tight, and should always be loaded in tension only, not in shear.

Bolts that aren't fully and properly tightened always work loose and fall out. A nylon "stop nut" works loose slower. Loctite or thread locker slows it down, but they always fall out.

If you must use a bolt, put a sleeve that fits properly (nearly fills) the hole in the end of the cable, but still turns pretty freely. Run a smaller bolt through the center of the sleeve to clamp it down to the shift lever. Tighten the bolt tight to hold things together, but the main shear load of the pin should be handled by the sleeve, not the bolt.

Another option is to use two nuts (perhaps a jam nut on the side closest to the cable) and tighten the nuts against each other sandwiching the lever between them. That will give you a "tight bolt" but it will still put a shear load on a bolt that's designed for tension loads.

Last edited by Racer_X; 07-17-2016 at 03:01 PM. Reason: Added recommendation to wait for the new cable before making permanent fix
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Old 07-17-2016, 11:13 PM
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Wow! This is an excellent discussion and description for a full fix. I did not consider that the larger repair pin component should fit into the cable end and pass the small end into the broken pin end hole I punched out. I appreciate the discussion on the shear/tension aspect of my bolt repair. I learned a lot. I did consider the use of a sleeve, but had to rely on hardware I had on hand. I will keep an eye on my fix, as I am a bit short on funds to order the cable presently. Sure seems like you know your s***(stuff). Thanks much for the quick reply.
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