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Time to sell the Blazer?

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Time to sell the Blazer?

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  #11  
Old 01-31-2012, 09:24 PM
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Originally Posted by warthogdriver View Post
Worth fixing is up to you...like any investment you need to weigh your goals against the risk.
For me if/when engine goes i am getting another and dropping it in...i dont forsee selling my ride though. I like no payments and i love having my ride.
I must agree with warthogdriver, do a little number crunching, ie: how much would it sell for? how much $ worth of repairs does it have? can you get a car equal its value? Furthermore, if you sell it how long will you be without a vehicle? And how much do you feel attached to it? (me, im obsessed by mine)

Oh and about that sluggish running issue, try putting some cleaner in the fuel to see if that clears it up ex: chevron techron fuel treatment, seafoam, might get lucky and cheap!
 
  #12  
Old 02-01-2012, 08:46 AM
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I don't know about your state Bowtie, but here in MA it's always "cheaper to keep her" (that goes for wives, too ... ).

We have a $75 title, $50 for 2 yr. registration, sales tax based on book value (which is always higher than it should be) @ $25 per $1,000 value. This isn't even including insurance costs. So in MA it'll cost at least $250 to get it on the road, on top of whatever you paid for the new-to-you vehicle. When you factor all that in, it's cheaper to keep her - at least here.

If it's in that good of shape looks wise then you can't go wrong tossing more coin at it to get it mechanically sound. The next vehicle you buy is going to need work too, unless you buy new (and in lots of cases, even the new ones need work - been there done that). At least you know the history of the vehicle. The next one you might not be so lucky & end up with a former rental (like I did ... the Jimmy in my avatar) that'll put you in the poor house on repairs.

If you like it, I'd keep it. But if you really don't like it, well then that's a different ballgame.
 
  #13  
Old 02-05-2012, 03:10 PM
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Well, I bought it for 6900 with 42k on it. Totaling up my receipts ive put roughly 2500 into it. So that totals at 9400. Right now it needs the oil pan gasket ($500 estimated) trans seal(8 bucks, I can do that myself), shocks all the way around(not really sure on the cost of that, And im pretty sure i need 2 front wheel hub/bearing assemblies (about $100 a piece). That would put me close to 11g in it. If i sold it, im pretty confident I could get 6500 for it in the summer. Its basically mint, with the exception of one ding, other then that, it looks basically brand new. If I could sell it for 6500-7000, that would be enough to get me a 05-07 Scion Tc with anywhere from 40-90k miles on it. Decisions decisions...
 
  #14  
Old 02-22-2012, 06:59 PM
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Just a little update... Ive decided not to get the oilpan gasket done. Ive driven it how it is sense my last post, and it has not leaked anymore oil, and i have not had to add any. The squeeking also pretty much stopped, and im honestly not that worried about it. Im gonna do the trans seal in my autoshop class and change out the tranny fluid, filter, and gasket. Im also due for an oil change next week. Im wondering if theres anything I can add to my oil to cure any possible leaking gaskets? Or if running high mileage oil will help? I know theres plenty of threads on here about high mileage oil and i hear good and bad. If I swich to high mileage oil, and it works out with no leaking, ill keep running it. So whats some opinions on this? Run high mileage oil or keep running what ive been running, which is conventional mobil superclean 5000. Ive decided i like the blazer to much to sell it, plus I just got HIDs for it lol
 
  #15  
Old 02-22-2012, 07:26 PM
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Been told seafoam will expand gaskets. (the rubber kind). Honestly, looking under my blazer, whats so hard about pulling the oil pan? when my grandpa first got the old green blazer before I had it, they did it on a saturday and went fairly smooth as I recall.
 
  #16  
Old 02-23-2012, 08:05 AM
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Yeah, a pan gasket is $30 tops. Drop the Y-pipe, unbolt the motor mounts, & raise the engine up as far as you can - should be able to slip the pan out from there. I would never drop $500 for that job.

Back in the day, if they leaked oil we just threw 20W-50 in, which slowed the leak down ... but you had to switch to 10w-40 for winter for obvious reasons.

After you fix all that you'll have an above average vehicle that should last you quite a few years. If you sell it you always lose money. Cheaper to hold on to them as long as possible. Just my .02 .
 
  #17  
Old 02-23-2012, 09:08 AM
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run 10w-30 with some lucas and if its leaking it should stop and sea foam is good stuff too
 
  #18  
Old 02-23-2012, 10:30 AM
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im 16 and im not up to the task of changing the pan gasket. And my Auto teacher said that would be to big of a job to do in class. So I figured ill do an oil change next week, check the oil level weekly, and go from there. If its not leaking any, then I wont do the gasket, if its leaking a substantial amount, then ill get that gasket done. Can I run 10w-30 in the winter with no problems? I live in MI where it can get down to the low teens
 
  #19  
Old 02-24-2012, 08:46 AM
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We ran 20W-50 in ours all last winter on the old engine. Some mornings below zero. Had a hard time turning over, but it still ran. That stuff will hardly pour below 20° so we had to leave the oil in the house just to get it out of the container quickly.

Still went through a quart every 50-100 miles, which was every day - right out the tailpipe in a massive cloud.

 
  #20  
Old 02-24-2012, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Longer02 View Post
If you have an 02 you have an electronic odometer and the miles are stored in the PCM. I would dare to venture the miles are accurate. Sounds like it was neglected.
The vehicles mileage is not stored in the PCM. I have swapped out PCM's one Blazers which I have troubleshot and the mileage on the dash does not change when the PCM's are swapped. Given this fact I would definitely say that the mileage is stored in the instrument cluster.
 


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