what have you gotten done on your blazer today?
Starting Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 143

I don't know what a dio is... but my 2002 has had speed sensor issues on and off. They don't light the CEL, I only find out about them when another code pops up. They seem to display at the top of the list, so be sure to scroll down on your code reader's display.
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Burleson, TX
Posts: 253

i got a lot done on the blazer... Wednesday got a new radiator put in (has been seeping since i ran into a tree offroading a few weeks ago). Saturday i replaced the heater core (had been bypassed since before i bought it 1 1/2 years ago), new thermostat, flushed the cooling system, and replaced the driver side door hinge pins and bushings.
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 51

Actually, I can't imagine having to do this repair twice in 125,000 miles on any other car. Maybe a Chrysler or something, I don't know. I do know that if it was a Ford I could buy the hinge as an assembly and just bolt it to the uni-body. /rant off
I do make fairly short trips though. Anyway, how long did it take for the repair? IIRC, my tech and myself helping it took a couple hours without a door lifter tool. The door itself was pretty darn heavy, and we had to use a floor jack and some wood to support the door...
Anyway, I was thinking that it would be neat to weld some washers with the correct inside diameter of the outside of the bushings onto the unibody frame brackets in order to repair the wallered out holes, but that would probably require longer pins for the hinges. It would probably require an extra long pin through both hinges to make sure they are lined up before tacking them in place. Maybe it's just easier to replace them every 5 years...
Starting Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: New York
Posts: 143

<snip> IIRC, my tech and myself helping it took a couple hours without a door lifter tool. The door itself was pretty darn heavy, and we had to use a floor jack and some wood to support the door...
Anyway, I was thinking that it would be neat to weld some washers with the correct inside diameter of the outside of the bushings onto the unibody frame brackets in order to repair the wallered out holes, but that would probably require longer pins for the hinges. It would probably require an extra long pin through both hinges to make sure they are lined up before tacking them in place. Maybe it's just easier to replace them every 5 years...
Anyway, I was thinking that it would be neat to weld some washers with the correct inside diameter of the outside of the bushings onto the unibody frame brackets in order to repair the wallered out holes, but that would probably require longer pins for the hinges. It would probably require an extra long pin through both hinges to make sure they are lined up before tacking them in place. Maybe it's just easier to replace them every 5 years...
Rather than support the door from underneath, I used a 2x6 with one end on the roof of the Blazer and the other end on a stepladder, then opened the window and used rope to tie the top of the door to the 2x6. The door hangs vertically and won't fall over.
The hard part for me, was dealing with the spring. I bought one of those door spring compression tools, but the Blazer spring was so strong it destroyed the tool (the tool was made like $hit anyway...). I ended up putting wires through the spring, compressing it in a vise, twisting the wires together, hoping it stayed compressed enough, and cutting the wires once I got it in place...
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Burleson, TX
Posts: 253

i just used a floor jack and a block of wood. my hinges are ovaled out because the bushings were worn out for at least 2 years (since before i bought it). it took about 20 minutes to do the upper and lower and i just used the Dorman kit that O'reilly auto parts sells. no issues with the hinges even being ovaled out.
New Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Colorado, USA
Posts: 51

The pins seem a bit longer than necessary, so your fix might work. I put washers on mine to take up the "slack".
Rather than support the door from underneath, I used a 2x6 with one end on the roof of the Blazer and the other end on a stepladder, then opened the window and used rope to tie the top of the door to the 2x6. The door hangs vertically and won't fall over.
The hard part for me, was dealing with the spring. I bought one of those door spring compression tools, but the Blazer spring was so strong it destroyed the tool (the tool was made like $hit anyway...). I ended up putting wires through the spring, compressing it in a vise, twisting the wires together, hoping it stayed compressed enough, and cutting the wires once I got it in place...
Rather than support the door from underneath, I used a 2x6 with one end on the roof of the Blazer and the other end on a stepladder, then opened the window and used rope to tie the top of the door to the 2x6. The door hangs vertically and won't fall over.
The hard part for me, was dealing with the spring. I bought one of those door spring compression tools, but the Blazer spring was so strong it destroyed the tool (the tool was made like $hit anyway...). I ended up putting wires through the spring, compressing it in a vise, twisting the wires together, hoping it stayed compressed enough, and cutting the wires once I got it in place...
Wow, that's a cool and simple idea to use the roof rack and wood to support the door. Although, that mostly eliminates my position which was just to stand around and drink while holding the door from hitting the front fender. Some furniture blankets or old blankets should protect the paint enough if you try this by yourself. Thanks!
As I recall our tool for the spring was ok, thanks for Newguy and DesertStorm for other ideas also!






