what have you gotten done on your blazer today?
Well, I didn't want to drive you all nuts by posting every little thing I was doing to try to get ready to stab this 91 Camaro 3.1 into my son's 85 Blazer so I haven't posted in a while. I've done some little things like grinding down a couple of the valve cover hold downs (elongated thick washer to keep from dimpling the pan) to fit the back and front of the covers on the 85 since I'd already used the sides. That left me one short and my OCD couldn't have that so I made one more out of a piece of strap metal.
Then I decided to check the timing and based on everything I'd ever heard and even the second and third opinions I'd gotten at the time I brought the #1 to top dead center. I was glad to see that the distributor was pointing right were it was supposed to be since I'd pulled and re-stabbed it. However, none of the timing marks on the harmonic balancer lined up. More second and third opinions and it was determined it had jumped time. So, once again, I pulled the water pump and timing cover to replace the gears and chain (which I would have done while it was torn down the first time but was running short on money). It wasn't until just before I was going to pull the gears that I decided to check my Chiltons. Low and behold, this engine uses the#4 cylinder for setting the timing! I went ahead and changed the timing chain and gears since it was already torn down and the chain did have slack in it.
Next I decided to change the rear main seal which came with gasket set I'd bought for the intake and heads. Once again I got out my trusty seal puller only to find out I couldn't use the stupid thing to get it out. I think I've been successful with it Twice in ten years. A flat blade screwdriver took it right out though. I decided I should put the seal in properly and called to rent a seal driver set from AutoZone. Long story short(ish) I drove to town only to find it wouldn't work even though I'd been assured it did. Then I called around. All the sets to rent and buy are flat discs which won't work since the crank protrudes slightly past the back of the engine. I had to make a Redneck driver out of a piece of 1" deck board. Popped it right in and drove it flat with no issues. I also changed the camshaft push plate gasket while I was at it.
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Next I spent a few days cleaning out the mess rats had left in the engine compartment. That was a chore. I vacuumed, disinfected, washed, and re-washed it and then spray painted everything I could. Yesterday I got in there and fixed as much of the wiring I could which they had chewed. I've still got a couple of mystery wires without ends so I'm hoping to figure that out.
I also cleaned up the carb because I was going to put it back on before I stabbed the engine. I had it most of the way clean before I spotted a vacuum port/tube which had been broken off of the back side of the carb. Looks like they'd tried to remove it by cutting a small V in the body of the carb but still couldn't get it all. I Might be able to put a vacuum splice into it and use it but I'd rather replace it. IF I had the money I'd buy a new one but can't afford that. I'm either looking at getting one from a salvage for $125 shipped in from another state or if I'm lucky this guy I talked to might be willing to either sell me one he has or possibly work a trade for a 4.3 engine I have.
Well, that's the majority of what I've done on it lately. I still have to mount the electric fuel pump but then I think I'm about ready to try to put the engine in and start trying to work the puzzle of connecting everything.
Speaking of hooking up the electric fuel pump. Is anyone familiar with the fuel lines on this 85 Chevy S10 4x4 Blazer? I have what appears to be two lines, one larger and one smaller. The smaller line would fit the fuel pump better and the larger line seems to be slightly too big. However, my guess would be that the larger line is the actual fuel line and the smaller one is a return line of some kind. The second and third opinions I got agreed with mine but they weren't really familiar with this particular vehicle.
Then I decided to check the timing and based on everything I'd ever heard and even the second and third opinions I'd gotten at the time I brought the #1 to top dead center. I was glad to see that the distributor was pointing right were it was supposed to be since I'd pulled and re-stabbed it. However, none of the timing marks on the harmonic balancer lined up. More second and third opinions and it was determined it had jumped time. So, once again, I pulled the water pump and timing cover to replace the gears and chain (which I would have done while it was torn down the first time but was running short on money). It wasn't until just before I was going to pull the gears that I decided to check my Chiltons. Low and behold, this engine uses the#4 cylinder for setting the timing! I went ahead and changed the timing chain and gears since it was already torn down and the chain did have slack in it.
Next I decided to change the rear main seal which came with gasket set I'd bought for the intake and heads. Once again I got out my trusty seal puller only to find out I couldn't use the stupid thing to get it out. I think I've been successful with it Twice in ten years. A flat blade screwdriver took it right out though. I decided I should put the seal in properly and called to rent a seal driver set from AutoZone. Long story short(ish) I drove to town only to find it wouldn't work even though I'd been assured it did. Then I called around. All the sets to rent and buy are flat discs which won't work since the crank protrudes slightly past the back of the engine. I had to make a Redneck driver out of a piece of 1" deck board. Popped it right in and drove it flat with no issues. I also changed the camshaft push plate gasket while I was at it.
[/IMG]Next I spent a few days cleaning out the mess rats had left in the engine compartment. That was a chore. I vacuumed, disinfected, washed, and re-washed it and then spray painted everything I could. Yesterday I got in there and fixed as much of the wiring I could which they had chewed. I've still got a couple of mystery wires without ends so I'm hoping to figure that out.
I also cleaned up the carb because I was going to put it back on before I stabbed the engine. I had it most of the way clean before I spotted a vacuum port/tube which had been broken off of the back side of the carb. Looks like they'd tried to remove it by cutting a small V in the body of the carb but still couldn't get it all. I Might be able to put a vacuum splice into it and use it but I'd rather replace it. IF I had the money I'd buy a new one but can't afford that. I'm either looking at getting one from a salvage for $125 shipped in from another state or if I'm lucky this guy I talked to might be willing to either sell me one he has or possibly work a trade for a 4.3 engine I have.
Well, that's the majority of what I've done on it lately. I still have to mount the electric fuel pump but then I think I'm about ready to try to put the engine in and start trying to work the puzzle of connecting everything.
Speaking of hooking up the electric fuel pump. Is anyone familiar with the fuel lines on this 85 Chevy S10 4x4 Blazer? I have what appears to be two lines, one larger and one smaller. The smaller line would fit the fuel pump better and the larger line seems to be slightly too big. However, my guess would be that the larger line is the actual fuel line and the smaller one is a return line of some kind. The second and third opinions I got agreed with mine but they weren't really familiar with this particular vehicle.
Last edited by Brian K. Balzer; Apr 12, 2015 at 02:43 PM. Reason: Adding a question.
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 647
From: West-Central MA
Smaller one is usually the return. That has an electric fuel pump with a carb? Was is that way from the factory, or was it converted?
I converted a '00 4.3 to carb for our '89 S10 Blazer. I had been chasing fuel problems for the first year, when the entire time it was the chinese eBay electronics (HEI) inside the distributor that were giving me all the trouble! Was pulling my hair out over that one ...
Long story short I ended up selling the Holley fuel pressure regulator, disconnecting the electric fuel pump, plugging the return line, and installing a Walboro FRB-13 fuel pump on the frame rail near where the OEM filter was. I had it drawing through the OEM fuel pump, until out of frustration chasing the electrical gremlins, I ran a hose direct and removed the OEM pump altogether. In the end I didn't have to do any of that ... but that's how it goes.
Since replacing EVERYTHING inside the distributor with Echlin components from NAPA last year around this time, this thing has been getting over 17mpg consistently all winter long (with winter fuel and snow tires!!), pulls like a freight train, and fires right up every single day without issue.
I converted a '00 4.3 to carb for our '89 S10 Blazer. I had been chasing fuel problems for the first year, when the entire time it was the chinese eBay electronics (HEI) inside the distributor that were giving me all the trouble! Was pulling my hair out over that one ...
Long story short I ended up selling the Holley fuel pressure regulator, disconnecting the electric fuel pump, plugging the return line, and installing a Walboro FRB-13 fuel pump on the frame rail near where the OEM filter was. I had it drawing through the OEM fuel pump, until out of frustration chasing the electrical gremlins, I ran a hose direct and removed the OEM pump altogether. In the end I didn't have to do any of that ... but that's how it goes.
Since replacing EVERYTHING inside the distributor with Echlin components from NAPA last year around this time, this thing has been getting over 17mpg consistently all winter long (with winter fuel and snow tires!!), pulls like a freight train, and fires right up every single day without issue.
New Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 2
From: Southwest Missouri
In the middle of a steering column repair now, it has multiple issues...first being igintion tumbler would allow start without a key and the tilt was loose. The column is tore down with the four bolts tighten and loctite has been applied, but the bright lever is out of adjustment and the turn signal switch is being replaced. Never been inside a column before now. Its a learning experience.
Thanks Smitty
Smaller one is usually the return. That has an electric fuel pump with a carb? Was is that way from the factory, or was it converted?
I converted a '00 4.3 to carb for our '89 S10 Blazer. I had been chasing fuel problems for the first year, when the entire time it was the chinese eBay electronics (HEI) inside the distributor that were giving me all the trouble! Was pulling my hair out over that one ...
Long story short I ended up selling the Holley fuel pressure regulator, disconnecting the electric fuel pump, plugging the return line, and installing a Walboro FRB-13 fuel pump on the frame rail near where the OEM filter was. I had it drawing through the OEM fuel pump, until out of frustration chasing the electrical gremlins, I ran a hose direct and removed the OEM pump altogether. In the end I didn't have to do any of that ... but that's how it goes.
Since replacing EVERYTHING inside the distributor with Echlin components from NAPA last year around this time, this thing has been getting over 17mpg consistently all winter long (with winter fuel and snow tires!!), pulls like a freight train, and fires right up every single day without issue.
I converted a '00 4.3 to carb for our '89 S10 Blazer. I had been chasing fuel problems for the first year, when the entire time it was the chinese eBay electronics (HEI) inside the distributor that were giving me all the trouble! Was pulling my hair out over that one ...
Long story short I ended up selling the Holley fuel pressure regulator, disconnecting the electric fuel pump, plugging the return line, and installing a Walboro FRB-13 fuel pump on the frame rail near where the OEM filter was. I had it drawing through the OEM fuel pump, until out of frustration chasing the electrical gremlins, I ran a hose direct and removed the OEM pump altogether. In the end I didn't have to do any of that ... but that's how it goes.
Since replacing EVERYTHING inside the distributor with Echlin components from NAPA last year around this time, this thing has been getting over 17mpg consistently all winter long (with winter fuel and snow tires!!), pulls like a freight train, and fires right up every single day without issue.
I have to use an aftermarket electric fuel pump because the 2.8 that came out of the 85 used a mechanical fuel pump but the 3.1 we're using out of a 91 Camaro was fuel injected and therefore doesn't have the spot for the mechanical pump. We swapped over the intake though to make it work in the 85. I'm glad to hear you were able to plug the return without any issues as that was/is my plan as well.
I know what you mean on the distributor issues. I fought with my 77 or 79 T-bird one year replacing several things while trying to figure it out before someone told me it could be the pickup coil inside the distributor. That was news to me since I didn't even know there was such a thing. Sure enough, after I replaced that my old 351 Modified ran like a charm.
On another note; do you know what the cable is that runs down across the top of the transfer case or where it would hook up? I'm guessing it has to do with the 4WD but I'm not sure.
In the middle of a steering column repair now, it has multiple issues...first being igintion tumbler would allow start without a key and the tilt was loose. The column is tore down with the four bolts tighten and loctite has been applied, but the bright lever is out of adjustment and the turn signal switch is being replaced. Never been inside a column before now. Its a learning experience.
I'm not familiar the bright lever, signal switch, or tilt on that one but the signal switch on my 78 Thunderbird wasn't hard to replace at all. It was a matter of pulling the steering wheel and the plastic housing around the column to access it if I remember correctly.
As for the tumbler, there should be a push pin which releases it with the ignition in the forward position. At least there was on every ignition tumbler I've ever replaced.
Best of luck!
You're more than welcome.
Hope it all goes well.