I added some pics of the new ball joints.

 

Got the LED light bar mounted to the bull bar.

Figured out where to run the harness into the cab.

I am going through the antenna grommet, on passenger
side floor/firewall section inside the cab....just took
a very bright led light and a screw driver to figure
out where it came out on engine side fire wall...but I see
where now...Lol

It is close to exhaust pipe, so I am going to pick up
some type of insulation to wrap around harness for
that small section.

 

trans cooler

 

My idle air control finally died. Replaced it. Also used a a/c manifold set to check my a/c system since it seems like its not as cold as it was and my clutch kicks on and off more then it should.

low side was around 32. Couldnt test the high side since i didnt have the correct adapter in my kit. Im guessing my orifice tube is clogged and causing my issues....

Now here is the question i got...Mine is still r12...ive got 2 cans of r12....should i go back to r12 or convert it over to 134...hmmmmmm!

 

Today.. new battery .. new fuel filter.... new vaccum lines... Yesterday new spark plugs and wires.... tomorrow mass air flow sensor??? I'm chasing a problem I can't seem to solve....

 

Which is ?

 

Keep it r12. It's a much better refrigerant. Less likely to leak out, lower pressures, and removes heat like nobody's business.

I just finished a backward conversion (134a to r12) in our '93 Volvo 940. Thing was blowing 31° at times out the center vent yesterday, in the 80° range outside. It's the same whether it's on high or low. Works AWESOME!

Last year I did a full overhaul of our '86 Grand Marquis A/C system -every single component was replaced from cabin to grille. That also got r12. Works just as good as the Volvo, only the blower fan moves 10x as much air on high.

Before you add those cans, I would fix any and all leaks you have first (if they're leaking bad), and change the accumulator. System will last a good long time that way.

32 isn't bad on the low side, but constant clutch cycling is a dead ringer of a low charge. I don't like relying on pressure alone to tell what the system is doing, since that number is going to change based on many factors from outdoor air temp changes, engine/underhood temps, cabin temp., etc..

The best way is to feel the inlet and outlet of evaporator with your hand (outlet is accumulator side). The outlet should be the same temp, or slightly colder than the inlet (preferably slightly cooler). Can't do this on new cars since the metering device (orifice or TXV) is behind the firewall in the cabin. Yet another way automakers screwed us ...

EDIT just to clarify - you charge UNTIL the outlet is the same temp or colder than the inlet of the evaporator. Use a thermometer in the center vent on high, doors open - that'll be a worst-case load for the system. Watch the temp there carefully. Let the system stabilize by running a few minutes between each charge - watch that temp gauge in the vent closely. If it stops dropping, and inlet/outlet feel the same temp, STOP.

Charge by weight, even with the cans - weigh them so you know exactly what you've put in (unless you've got a good handle on how much you're putting in - I.E.: you've done this before). Since the compressor is cycling, go slow - it's not going to take very much. Good thing is, r12 is very forgiving of overcharges. I actually accidentally overcharged the Volvo by a half pound! My damn scale shut down on me in the middle of charging - didn't have the AC power cord for it. You can see from the numbers I posted above that it doesn't care too much. Just don't want to send liquid to the compressor - that would get ugly real fast.

 

Ordered and OBD2 bluetooth reader and purchased Torque Pro.
Have now been finding free plug-ins for it. I have a lot to learn about this app but man does it look extremely useful.

 

Went to ins Co after a flatbed trailer had a blow out in front of me ruining my tire and fender