Ok, so because of the knock that developed the night my son drove the blue beast [an 85 S10 4x4 Blazer with 2.8] too hard (could be coincidental timing and/or something caused it to be oil starved) we've pulled the engine and have it on a stand. I didn't think the crank looked bad and after getting a second opinion we're going to put bearings in it. I'm attempting to plastigauge the bearings to check to see which ones we need.

First off, I'm not an expert and have only helped do it many moons ago. I'm not sure if I should go off of what the majority of the strip looks like or the widest spot of the strip. (after re-torqueing and taking the cap back off) For example, the first one I did seemed like the majority of it was .051 mm / .002 in but one spot seemed closer to .038 mm / .0015 in. I did it a second time and took pictures but it's hard to get a great shot. I'll try to add those. The second and third ones seemed about the same. The fourth, fifth, and sixth ones seemed like the majority was closer to .038 mm / .0015 in.

I'm also planning on doing the main bearings while we're in there. However, the book (and what I've found online) says to torque the main bearing cap bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (in three steps) but doesn't specify the steps. I'm not sure if there is a pattern that is required or if they are indicating to torque to a lower spec twice and Then torque to 70 ft. lbs. So far I've not found anything more specific. Does anyone know what is recommended? Any and all help/advice would be appreciated as always.
http://s788.photobucket.com/user/Bri...tml?sort=3&o=0
http://s788.photobucket.com/user/Bri...tml?sort=3&o=1

 

When you torque a bolt in steps you divide the foot pounds by the number of steps. 70 foot pounds in 3 steps means torque all the bolts in the pattern to 23 foot pounds. Then re-torque them in pattern to 46 foot pounds. Finally, torque them to 70 foot pounds in pattern. There is a correct torque pattern for your 60 degree v-6 crankshaft bearing cap bolts. It's been too long since I built my fiero to remember.

 

Well I guess I'll give myself a Little bit of credit then. After not finding a specific answer anywhere that was what I had decided I was going to do. I don't remember the book mentioning doing it in pattern but I'll sure look it over again before diving in. Thanks for the reply.

 

Changed my water pump AGAIN... Jut put a new one in literally last weekend. Damn thing was leaking from where the bypass hose presses into the top of the pump... So far so good, seems to be all sealed up! Fingers crossed.

At least with changing my water pump twice in a week, I got my pre-summer antifreeze flush done that I wanted to do lol

 

I'll check the same bearing several times in different places on the bearing, and go with what the majority of it flattens out to. Usually if there are much wider areas, there is some debris, or extra plastigauge in that particular spot.

Very time consuming, but this isn't a job you want to do twice - trust me on that one.

 

I am slowly converting over to rear disc brakes on my 89 S15 Jimmy. I blasted the rotors of all rust and masked the rotor braking surfaces (E-Brake) and primed and painted all other surfaces inside and out. I used Rustoleum primer and professional enamel gloss black.

 

Ordered a 2dr spare tire carrier arm finally! I work in a salvage yard, have waited 3 years for one to come to our location and nothing, so I ordered one in from another site


Oh and this :P

 

Woohoo, new project! As if I don't have enough...

 

Replaced the cancel spring for left turns in my turn signal switch and the right dash vent register in my 89 S15 Jimmy.

 

Took her to the beach this morning. I feel outnumbered...