Uhhh...

Got 3/4 done with alt swap. Writing up a "how to" on it if anyones interested, it's in the electrical mod section. Only thing left is serp. belt and connecting neg batt cable back up. Then the fun... WOOT!!!
Teaser pics...

 

LOL So you decide to take a break and get online? That's funny.

If I put car parts on my table , let alone brought them in the house my junk would be in a sling.

 

did all 4 brakes today and front rotors. and removed the front sway bar. there is a noticible difference but I haven't done any highway driving yet so I'll fill you guys in on how scary it might be or might not be.

 

Nah, I just come up to the house for a couple minutes and grab a drink or sit in front of the AC which is right above the computer... so yeah I get on here. Plus I knew MTopper was waiting on a responce. I can bring car parts in the house as long as they are small and new (ie clean not dirty) But I don't get away with very much either. My yard has NO SHADE at all so I'm in direct sunlight the whole time, normally with a fan on a extension cable to at least get air circulating.

Alternator swap got done today. Got the right belt and extended some wires to reach the new post location on the new alt. Didn't have to modify much more than that, today that is. Everything looked and sounded good . Check the thread with pics and a video in the electrical section if interested. I'm happy with it!

 

Umm, washed it and used industrial strength rim cleaner. Looks good!

 

I don't have full access on this forum yet

Someone Please help any suggestion would help


A little Prehistory.
before i had it wheel bearings replaced. Radiator replaced.

A little history.
I have a 2000 gmc jimmy slt 4.3 4x4. When I bought it run ok. at 125,000 miles

It had slow loss of water in cooling system. It took about six months to notice temp started to rise a little then i would top it off then it was ok.
I had mechanic friend look at it he put pressure guage cap on it. It would loose about half pound of psi in 20 minuts then stop. we thought maybe it was coming from back of intake manifold. I've never been able to find hissing or wetness anywhere. We put two GM tablets for sealing the cooling system in it.
May have helped some.

Then it developed a hesitation.
Then it was hard to start.
Then it would die on the highway.

I had 7 codes
I replaced catalitic converter.
fuel pump
fuel filter

That cured all the codes. It ran good but still had some random hesitation when u first took off. It didn't matter if engine had been ran and restarted it was just random.

Then i moved 1200 miles away. Then cool was being lost more and more. Then of course i blew a head gasket or two at 165,000 miles.
Only cranked it one more time to coast it off bridge into gas station.
Towed it home.

Then took it apart and heads surfaced and pressure tested and magnu fluxed.

Took my sweet time putting it together really took time taking it a part not tring to brake anything. I could tell it has not been taken a part before.

I get it back together I explect it to run/sputter/stall atleast some progess.

Engine would spin i would call it a huff. It makes me think timing something about the sound. No back fire or blowing out the top of engine. Actually sounds smooth but different than a cranking sound before all this happened.

it didn't have good fuel pressure so check fuel pump actually replaced it under warranty.
pressure was better but still dropping after cranking so replaced spider or crab injectors with replacement multi port injection.
I think leak was in the plastic housing on spider. Now i have good pressure goes up above 60psi while cranking then holds high 58-60 then sitting and stays.
i forget the actually number but it was in the higher psi i have seen posts and books quoting.

Also went over time many times used nice timing instructions and diagrams you have on this forum.
I done the screw driver in the whole to aline oil pump shaft. did the tdc then turn #1 to marks.

I has having a lot of play in rotor and noticed distributor gear ware.
The gear teeth were pointy like sharks a tooth.

So i got a replacement distributor from advanced not a new one but reman. distributor came with sensor on it , and rotor , allready got plug wires and cap.
i needed distirbutor housing anyway i stripped/blewout one of the holes taking it out several times.

At this point after cranking it i have heat on both exhaust manifolds so i feel that i must have some fuel and some fire.

I have it apart again the intake manifold is off and i can see some ware on gear on the camshaft where it meshes with the distributor it doesn't look near as bad. And timing chain is off.

I was going to replace cam but not sure if i can take it out without unhook ac stuff i know the radiator is would come out.

I'm at the point were if the ac has to be taken apart i'll just take the whole engine out.

i've got new timing chain and gears. i can put in it as well. although the old ones don't look that bad.

my idea about this is i just think the computer could be fighting the slop in the camshaft gear and or timing.
I think the crankshaft sensor is working because i do have fire.

i also have a new oil pressure switch on it.

 

I like the quote you have of mine in your sig..

 

Replaced the spare tire carrier today. The one I got off eBay said it was for a 98-01 Blazer, but it fit my 95, sort of...had to bend the tube and bracket a bit, but it did bolt down eventually. The hardest part was figuring out how to get the back bumper off so I could get to the one inaccessible bolt. Turns out that a break-over bar and a lot of muscle would get the bracket attachment nuts loose.

Now my spare tire is back underneath, where it belongs.

 

Filled 'er up. $52 of mid-grade!

 

installed my other HID kit tonight, they're sooooooooo amazing!

(pic's in my build)