My life never gets easier. After painting my calipers for my new rims i must of loosened the brake line bolt. I lost brakes today and checked the fluid,it was dry. I looked around for a leak and found that the bolt that bolts the line onto the caliper was leaking. I tightened it and bled my lines. At least my pedal feels tighter then it did before hand,but still sucks.

Im tired of BS..

anyways. i bleed my lines today and topped off the oil.

 

Installed an old double din I had in the garage from the wifes old car..had to extremely modify a single din dash kit for it to work

 

Hey tibby you can scoop up some H.I.D's on eBay for under $40 a pair. That's what I did for all my headlights

 

WTF!

Okay... how about some details! What was wrong with orig?
This time?

Okay.. why werent they working? Or if you answered that in anohter thread, the link.

Notice Chris pointed out a foof he made with the caliper banjo bolt? We all learn something from that stuff.

 

The original had a hairline crack on the side tank. Just opposite the inlet tube from the engine. My theory on that is heat cycles/pressure over time cracked it. It was original and 13 years old when that happened.

Second one was leaking at ALL 4 connections where the oil/trans coolers are on the side tanks, where the plastic tanks meet the metal fittings for the cooler lines. This started about a month after install, started as a seep and got worse to a trickle. I would have gotten it warranted if i wasn't just plain ol pissed off at plastic tanked radiators. I decided that i'm done farting around with plastic tanks and got a fully welded all aluminum radiator. No more plastic tanks to worry about cracking/leaking etc.

 

Fair enough and a good solution.. but blaming plastic tank design for that is like blaming GM/Delphi when your Airtex fuel pump fails.
If I bought a radiator and wanted it to last, I'd look for the OE or Modine brand mfrd.

 

Over the weekend I changed the transmission fluid, fliter, and put in a thing of Lucas Stop Slip. I am usaully one not to run any additives, however after my transmission started slipping on the 1-2 and 2-3 shift, and reading some reviews online, figured it couldn't hurt. The trans seems to shift better but still has a slight slip every now and then. Wasn't a good sign when I pulled the pan and the magnet was full of shavings. I have a line on a guy who can rebuild them for dirt CHEAP and will eventually go that route. Will need a rebuild before summer so I can pull the boat around. Pisses me off that I JUST bought this thing, has right at 100k on it, and the trans is going already. Everyday I wish I would have kept my higher milage 2000 Blazer "Trailblazer" I had. Oh well, live and learn. Still into this one less than I sold the other one for .

 

hopefully an oil change if it stops snowing out and warms up a bit

 

I finally changed out my starter cable, now it starts like a champ, sort of. I think I will need a new starter soon, but it starts now so that's good.

Here is the old starter cable.

 

I know, but I'm trying not to blind anyone. Our 95-97 original headlight housings + hid's = disaster.

I think I'm going to go through with this 98+ front end conversion.






Thog, you have it good lol. Mine has a hard time starting because my fuel injectors have been going bad. My gas gauge fluctuates so much I was on the highway on the circular ramp to go from one highway to another and it cut off half-way through the loop. I had to give it some man-power to turn for a sec lol and it started right up. Later on, I go to start it and you hear it cranking but it needs a good 5 to 10 seconds of cranking to start up. I don't have the money right now to replace the injectors and it is way too time consuming right now to clean them.