Not to ask a dumb question, but when you added coolant, what color did you add? Was it Dexcool, the new all-makes/models formula, or regular "green stuff" ethylene glycol? The only reason I ask is that if you mix the green stuff with Dexcool, it doesnt keep your engine cool, and can cause lots of problems.

 

OK I went outside got in the blazer for a quick maybe 3 mile drive? maybe more. Well the temp thing said 102(overhead console) well i was gone 13 mins driving or havening the motor running. Well it was running warm. When i removed my gauges for the overlays i didnt get that gauge perfect basically now. the normal area is right over the 2 on 210. well now its over the 1 just about on the 0. Should i be as worried as I am?

 

You really should verify with a scan tool... Does it push coolant out of the overflow?

 

nope not pushin coolant out (that i know of)

not steaming or anything either

 

Then it is very possible that the needle was just put on in the wrong spot.

 

no no no it's normal area is just coverin the 2 on 210. now its in between the 1 and 0. So I KNOW its higher and it lowers when i turn the heat on like full blast and all.

 

Did you check your cooling fan yet?

I bought a thermometer (from Starbucks...lol) for measuring water temp. I found that if I hold it tight to the upper rad hose, I get a fairly accurate reading. I've used this method to check my temp guage. It's not 100% accurate, but it gives me a good idea.
I've stuck it in the coolant in a cool rad while warming up the engine to see when the thermostat opens and the coolant starts to flow.

 

These engines are designed to run about 200 to 220 degrees

 

I found more info on cooling fan diagnosis.
Start with a cool engine to ensure complete fan clutch disengagement.
If the fan/fan clutch assembly free-wheels with no drag (revolves more than five times when spun by hand), replace the fan clutch. Testing a fan clutch by holding the small hub with one hand while rotating the aluminum housing in a clockwise/counterclockwise motion will cause the clutch to free wheel. This is a normal condition when operated this way. It is not a test to determine replacement.
Position a thermometer between the radiator and the fan blades. Do this by inserting the thermometer sensor through one of the existing holes in the fan shroud, or by placing it between the radiator and the shroud.
With the thermometer in position, cover the radiator grille enough to induce a high engine temperature. Start the engine. Turn the air conditioning on. Run the engine at 2000 RPM.
It takes approximately 5-10 minutes for the temperature to become high enough to allow engagement of the fan clutch. This will be indicated by an increased in roar in the fan air noise. There also will be a drop in the temperature reading, from 3-15°C (5-15°F).
- If the clutch does not engage between 65-90°C (150-195°F), the fan clutch should be replaced. Be sure the fan clutch is disengaged at the start of the test.

- If the fan noise level is constantly high from the start of the test to 88°C (190°F), without any noticeable noise level increase or drop in temperature, the fan clutch must be replaced. To prevent engine overheating, discontinue the test, past a thermometer reading of 88°C (190°F).

As soon as the clutch engages, remove the radiator grille cover. Next turn off the air conditioning. This will assist in engine cooling. Run the engine at approximately 1500 RPM