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Brakes??

 
 
 
 
  #1  
Old 07-30-2006, 07:33 PM
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Default Brakes??

Well after fixin' that vacuum my brakes got ALOT better, but I don't think they're still quite up to par... so today I went and got some good Raybestos pads and took and had my rotors turned. While I was in there I noticed a bunch of CRAP built up on that toothed ring for the ABS now I'm not gettin' any pulsing or anything like that... I've actually FORCED it into a slide in the dirt and they seem to be workin' ok... kinda feels like growl in the pedal is the best way I can describe it. But they seem to be workin' ok. When I did the new pads upfront I did compress the calipers with a big C clamp and they seem to go back in with no effort at all... nice and slick like. Now one thing I've noticed is my brake fluid is NASTY *** brown...:/ so I think I'mma flush it all outta there and do a FULL bleed on the system next weekend. Would these contaminants cause the braking to not be up to par?? The pedal is nice and stiff so I don't think there's really any air or anything in there.. but it seems like I have to push too hard on the brakes... I've also pulled the check valve on the booster off and blew through it and it seems to be workin' (lets vacuum pull but not in the other direction) and when I pull it off.. you can hear the air hissin' outta the booster (vacuum bleeding off) so it's holdin' a vacuum even when the truck is off... maybe the master cyl is goin'??


Far as the speed sensors... OMG... NAAAAAAAAAAAAAAASTY... .looked like one solid ring with all the CRUD in 'em so I got the air adapter out and blew 'em out REAL good... then took the dremel tool to 'em with a little wire wheel for all the little crannies in there.... then a sanding flapper wheel on the dremel for the actual top surface and man those things look like brand new... they polished now pretty much....ahhahaha
then went to it ALL with some ABS sensor safe brake cleaner then blew everything out real good....
My daddy always told me "A clean truck is a happy truck".... yeah I MIGHT be a redneck....LMAO
I didn't get a teething ring.. I got an old broken belt out of a 4x4 paddle tire....hahahahahaha
(Mom's gonna KILL me)


Any help here appreciated...

Oh yeah... also dragged a grease gun under there and greased every fitting I could find... cept the idler arm on the steering bar couldn't get to it with the splash guard on.. I'll get it next time I change the oil...:P
 
  #2  
Old 07-31-2006, 03:00 AM
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Default RE: Brakes??

Everything you've described sounds pretty good...except maybe having to push hard on the pedal.
What kind of brake pads did you use. If you use something with a high metallic content they usually work quite well. If you use a pad with a low metallic content you will have to apply considerably more pressure on the pedal to stop.

Flushing the brake fluid is a good idea and something that should be done every couple of years. (Although it is easily overlooked)
I use a suction gun to empty the master cylinder and then some brake cleaner on a rag to clean out the resevoir. Then I refill the resevoir with clean fluid before I even start to bleed the system. No point in putting all that dirty fluid thru the system.
 
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Old 07-31-2006, 03:16 AM
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Default RE: Brakes??

What he said. Plus, did you lubricate up the slide pins when you put the brakes back together.
 
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Old 07-31-2006, 07:19 AM
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Default RE: Brakes??

YUP... sure did...
 
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:09 AM
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Default RE: Brakes??

master cylinder.
 
  #6  
Old 07-31-2006, 10:34 AM
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Default RE: Brakes??

uhh huh.... well I was gonna just bleed 'em out real good and see what happened.. but.... you're right.... I'll replace it... can get it new for 105 bux... and it's NOT worth the headache to tell you the truth....LOL
 
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Old 07-31-2006, 03:48 PM
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Default RE: Brakes??

Sounds like you have it under control.
Do a write up on the brake system.
 
  #8  
Old 07-31-2006, 11:58 PM
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Default RE: Brakes??

OK question on bleeding these brakes.... When I looked at my Alldata for my blazer about the bleeding proceedure (never messed with ABS and just wanted to make sure I do it right) they say there's some bolts on the sides of my ABS module under the hood that you are supposed to crack open and use somekind of special tool to bleed it out (3 of them) somekind of combination valve pressure bleeding valve or some mess... and it's not the 2 bleeders on the top of the unit... does anyone know what on earth this tool is.... here's the proceedure they have down for my 95 blazer 4wd



MANUAL BLEEDING
The Electro-Hydraulic Control Unit Brake Pressure Modulator Valve Module (EHCU/BPMV) should be bled after replacement or if air is trapped in the unit or system. If system bleeding is required, the module must be bled thoroughly before the wheel cylinders and calipers.

There are two bleeders on top of the unit that appear to be normal bleeders (figure 221). These are modulator bleeders and must remain closed when the unit is not pressurized.

The internal bleeders are on either side of EHCU/BPMV module. The valves are used to open the internal passages within the EHCU/BPMV module. Both bleed valves must be rotated 1/4 to 1/2 turn counterclockwise before beginning the bleed process. The valve on the lefthand side is used for the rear brakes and the valve on the righthand side is used for the front brakes.

NOTE: The ignition switch must be in the Off position or false diagnostic trouble codes may be stored.

SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED (or equivalent)

* J-39177, Combination valve pressure bleeding tool (three required).

PROCEDURE

1. Install combination valve depressor tool J-39177 to LH high pressure accumulator bleed stem of EHCU/BPMV module.
2. Install combination valve depressor tool J-39177 to RH high pressure accumulator bleed stem of EHCU/BPMV module.
3. Install combination valve depressor tool J-39177 to rear combination valve.
4. Ensure master cylinder fluid level, fill if required.
5. Bleed EHCU/BPMV module as follows:

1. Slowly depress brake pedal one time and hold.
2. Open left modulator bleeder, until fluid flows clearly or pedal is depressed, the close left bleeder.
3. Slowly release brake pedal.
4. Wait 15 seconds, then repeat steps until all air is bled from EHCU/BPMV module.
5. Close LH internal bleed valve. Torque bleed valve to 7 Nm (5 ft lbs) .
6. Repeat preceding bleed steps for righthand bleed procedure.
7. Remove special tools.

6. Ensure master cylinder fluid level, fill if required.
7. Bleed wheel cylinder and calipers.
8. Turn ignition key to On position, then perform 3 function test with TECH 1 scanner.
9. Check brake pedal feel and braking performance; repeat procedure if required.
 
 
 
 
 
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