Hello,

This is my first post on your forum. I wanted to take this opportunity to say hello and ask a few questions about my newly acquired Blazer.

I just picked up a 1996 2wd Auto with 205,000 miles on the clock. The vehicle is single owner and has been very well maintained. The interior and exterior are congrous of a car with more like 35k on the odometer.

I basically picked up this vehicle as something more practical than my Boxster that would allow me to drive around my mtn and road bikes to the trailheads / events.

So far I like the truck, but there are two issues.

1) The passenger side window does not go up. I'm pretty sure this is either a fuse, a switch or a motor. It worked when I got the truck (about a week ago) and then stopped. When any of the switch buttons are pressed, I dont hear any motor sound, and nothing happens. I pulled out the passenger switch and looked at, and it looked fine, but I'm not sure what to look for.
Can anyone advise if this is most likely a fuse, switch or motor.

2) The transmission feels as though it is "Slipping" The vehicle drives fine at once up to speed, but does not like to accellerate. I have to let off the gas to allow it to shift into the next higher gear.

I imagine this is one of three things as well: improper (low) fluid in the transmission, a bad torque convertor, or the transmission is completely shot and needs a rebuild.

I have called around and it looks that a complete tranny rebuild is around $1600. This seems a little high. If I do fall in the worst case scenario, what do junkyard trannys go for and how hard are they to install. I have substantial mechanical experience with performance cars, but to me an automatic transmission is a witchbox that runs on frogs legs and bat wings.

I sincerely appreciate your advice and assistance.

Thank you.

 

First WELCOME! I can maybe help u on the window only lol sorry but pop the door panel off and check the wires. my friends got clipped somehow in his explorer. might be the same in ur truck. Also if the fuse blew then all sets of power windows wouldnt work if both or all dont work then its prolly ur fuse but check the wires make sure they arent ripped or anything

 

Welcome.

Window- Could be the switch on either the drivers door or passengers door. You need to test and see if the passengers door switch is getting power. If its getting power in, make sure its getting power out. If so, window motor. If not switch. If no power it could be the drivers side switch or a broken wire in the rubber boot that connects the door to the body, on either the drivers door or passengers door. Slice it open on the bottom(that way gravity won't let mother nature in and screw up all the wiring). Check Autozone on-line for a wiring diagram, or better yet, buy a Hanyes manual. If the fuse was blow, your other windows wouldn't go up or down.

As for the tranny, slippage is never good. You can save yourself a bunch of money by removing and installing it yourself. I can walk you through it no problem. Just give me a heads up so I can type it out. In the meantime, check the tranny fluid level. Drive the truck for 20minutes. park on level ground and leave the engine running. Check both sides of the dipstick. Add as needed. If no oil on the dipstick, add a quart. Takes a pint (1/4 quart) to fill it up from the fill line. After you add fluid, shift the tranny through all gears and check agian, don't shut off the engine.

 

Well....I actualy had my transmission go on my blazer.....it still went forward...but if I stepped on the gas..the rpms went up..and no forward movement.....it wasn't until I got to the gas station..that I realised I had no reverse......I had my transmission istalled.....but I did get a used trannie with 6,000 miles on it I belive for about 600 dollars.....that's about as good as I can help you with....good luck!

 

XBlazr,

Thanks for the welcome! I wouldn't have imagined that the windows were individually fused, but you never know. Thanks for the clarification.

Hanr3,

Thanks for the response. I'll follow through with your instructions over the weekend and let you know how it works out. I appreciate the generous offer of writing instructions for the transmission removal.

Paddle_grl,

$600 sounds like a pretty good deal. Did you then have a shop install the transmission? If so, what was their fee for that service?

 

I paid $250 for my tranny(when I put an auto in it) and put it in myself in about 6 hrs.

 

Chris,

Now we're talkin..

How did you acquire that transmission, was it a junkyard or a classified item? I'm assuming it was not a rebuild. How many miles did it have on it and how much did you know about the tranny?

If I purchase a replacement, are there any years/variations that are better/worse than others?

 

Yours probably will be more because you have a 4L60E which has a lot more electronic components than the 700R4 that I put in mine. I got mine with 150K miles and a 6 mth warrenty from a junkyard(I gave them alot of $$ over the years and developed a good friendship with the owner).

 

Your truck is a '96. In '93 GM installed the 4L60E trannies in all S10 type vehicles, maybe even all trucks that were running the 4L60? You can use any 4L60E tranny out of any GM truck that is 2wdr. This includes fullsize trucks with V8 engines, or 4.3L engines. The 4.3L V6 (your engine) has the same bolt pattern as the V8 Small Block Chevy engines. GM put the 4L60E tranny behind all 1/2 ton and lighter trucks and SUVs. This includes the fullsize pick-ups, Suburbans, fullsize Blazers, Astro vans, and all S10 trucks. I think you can find a tranny for what you want to pay. They are everywhere. [8D] Your only restriction is 2wdr and a 4L60E tranny.

Call your local auto salvage yard and ask them what they got? They will also have parts interchange books to make sure it will work in your truck, and I am pretty sure it will.

As for years better or worse then others, no not really, as far as your concerned. If you were looking for an early 80's version then yes. The 4L60E is the third morph of this tranny. It has been in use since the early 80's. Back then it was called a 700R4. Then around '89-'92 it was changed to the 4L60. "93 it went to the 4L60E. There have been internal modifications over the years, but nothing to affect what your doing with it.

You may need to retain your torque converter. That will depend on what the donor truck is. Although I recommend a new torque converter. Sure would hate to see oyu get everything hooked back up only to find that your torque converer is also slipping. To replace it you would have to drop the tranny back out. Joy, joy, fun, fun.

Since this will be your first tranny drop/install. Plan on 2 weekends. One to get her out, and one to get her back in. The first time always takes longer. Especially if oyu have questions. Let me know if your serious about doing this yourself and we can swap phone numbers.

I gather you have basic hand tools?
15mm or 18mm wobble socket for the bellhousing bolts. There all the same size, you can check on one of the lower ones. You'll need the wobble for the top two bolts, plus you will need about 3' of extensions.
Flare wrenches for the cooler lines. Check the fittings on the radiator (passengers side) for size, unless you can get your hand and a wrench between the frame, exhaust pipe, and tranny to check it on the tranny side. GM uses the same size fittings on both ends, not like Fords. Somewhere along the years GM went to quick connect fittings. There is a little clip that holds the cooler line in place. Pop the clip out and the line comes out. If you don't ahve it you will have to unbolt the flare fittings. The clip wire is about the thickness of a spiral bound notbook wire.
Floor jack and some wood. I use 1"x6"x2', and a piece 12" long. Bigger the floor jack the better. It needs to reach the tranny pan from the floor.
Jack stand to hold the engine in place.
I use car ramps, and it wouldn't hurt to use jack stands under the front frame to level the truck out. Remember the floor jack needs to reach the tranny pan while the truck is in the air. You can skip the ramps and jack stands if oyu can fit under the truck with it resting on all fours. In taht case block both sides of the wheels. You will be removng the tranny and driveshafts, the thigns that normally hold the truck still while in park. I hate to point out the obvious, however some people don't realize this until the truck starts to move on them.
I use a 3ton SUV floor jack now and remove the center piece on the jack end. Mine has a flat piece I rest the boards on. Before I used a 2 1/2 ton floor jack and about 4 pieces of 2"x4" nailed together to get the height I needed. Take about a balancing act. You could always rent a tranny jack, but I am too cheap.
I always remove the exhaust cross-over pipe. I got tips on those cross over to ex