Stepping up to a HO2 would definitely cut the open loop time down. You'd have to run an extra wire and I'm not sure if it's 5v or 12v, but I guess it depends on the sensor.

 

Running the hot and cold wires are no biggy. All I have to do is figure out how hot it gets to be (5 or 12 volts). Maybe someone here has a part number for a 12v one. I am running low on 5v outputs and really don't want to relay another one. I already need to find a central nervous system to put all my existing relays and fuses as it is. I have like 10 fused relays running around under my hood already. Being a Blazer I could relocate them all to the tool compartment were the spare tire would be but that is a lot of wire to run that far and back. I would loose a bit of wattage doing that. I could run a heavy cable back there to a post and branch off it for all the hot wires to the relays but there is still the loses to get all that back to the acc. Where could I even run that much wire. There is too much to run them all through the interior so it would have to be under the whole truck. If I where to put it all there I would have to heavely insulate the cover to keep from hearing all the clicks and clacks from the relays. It would sound like an electric drum set back there. It could all go under the dash but it is already pretty full from all the interior relay work. To top it all off I need the glove box and console to remain as they are.

 

When, mileage wise, is a good time to change the O2 sensors? I've got 26500 on my 03, and i would like to change the sensor, but i'm wondering if it would be a waste of money, thanks. Also, i was looking under my truck, and i noticed that there is a dent in the exhaust pipe right near the sensor. I don't know if this is a factory installed dent, or a previous owner installed dent. Thanks.

 

The only proper way to diagnose a bad O2 sensor is with a scan tool (or oscilliscope) and watching the response of the sensor. How is your fuel mileage? Have you checked you plugs lately? At 26xxx miles, I wouldn't be worried at all. My Bravada made it to 75k miles on the originals (atleast to my knowledge they are the originals). As a check at 26k miles, I would just pull the plugs and check the gaps.

I see you are running a K&N filter, you should pull the MAF sensor (between the air filter and the throttle body) and clean it thoroughly. Be very careful with it, but with any aftermarket oiled reuseable filter, the oils coat the MAF sensor causing improper readings which could cause MANY other problems.

 

Once again, your knowledge astounds me. Thats a good call on the K&N filter thing. Especially since it would let extra dirt in, it will just cling to the oil. How would you recommend cleaning the sensor? And how often, like every time i change the oil? Thanks alot, you're the best.

 

On the MAF sensor, yeah, clean it everytime you change your oil. Clean it with electrical contact cleaner. If the oil/dirt is really caked on, you may have to take a q-tip and spray some of the cleaner in to the cap and gently rub the MAF elements. Be VERY careful as these elements are very sensitive and easily broken and a new MAF is not cheap.

Also, when cleaning and re-oiling the filter, here's the process I go by:
[ol][*]Wash the filter with either the K&N soap or with a mild detergent[*]Using a shopvac or another wet/dry vacuum cleaner, suck off all of the additional water left in the filter[*]Allow the filter to thoroughly dry (overnight in a warm dry place if possible)[*]Re oil the filter making sure not to over saturate the media[*]Let the filter set for another hour atleast, flipping it over every 15-20 minutes[*]Using the same wet/dry vac, run it over both sides of the filter to ensure that any excess oil is removed[*]Reinstall in the vehicle
[/ol]

These steps will minimize the effects of the oil on the MAF as you will have prevented over oiling the filter itself.

Good Luck!

 

Thanks a lot. Also, while were on the oil change subject, what kind of oil do you recommend? My older bro uses mobile one in his 01 Cobra, but that is really expensive, is it worth it? On my parents leased vehicles, they just use what ever the oil change places use, and i don't want to do that. Thanks again.
BTW did you just become a moderator?

 

I have always been partial to Mobil 1 and have run it in everything I own. I generally go 6-9k miles on my Bonneville (whenever the oil life monitor reads 25% or below) with Mobil 1. I had been running Mobil 1 in my Bravada, but I just switched over to Quaker State (which I used to use before the synthetic craze) because I have/had an oil leak. My leaking oil pan was not caused in any way by the synthetic oil, rather loose bolts that I now fear have caused the o-ring seal to leak even after tightening up the bolts (2 were about ready to fall out!). Why leak out expensive stuff? Once I find out if I have it under control, I'll switch back to Mobil 1 and go for 5-6k miles between changes. I used to have an oil analysis done on my Bonneville before I moved and Mobil 1 in that engine even after 9k miles had only gone through half it's useable life, according to the lab. I need to find another lab here to start doing it again. Running 9k between changes actually really saves $$$ over conventional at 3k changes.

*EDIT* - Yeah. Became a mod yesterday actually.

 

I generally use Quaker State or Castrol...I'm cheap but want something sort of reputable...

 

Thanks guys. I'll probably go for the mobil one then. Congrats on the moderator-ship.