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2 inch lift CV AXLE POSSIBLE FIXES

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  #11  
Old 06-07-2009, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bandidolenny
As far as longer cv shafts go... if you stuff your front suspension on a landing... it seems to me that longer cv shafts will shove into the diff case and possibly break something.
Bingo! Unless you fab up longer control arms, you will not want to put longer CV shafts in.
 
  #12  
Old 06-08-2009, 10:02 AM
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well the upper control arms from Rough Country are longer arms. How much longer I'm not too sure.. Maybe not enough to make a difference.. I need to check and see how much room is left when the axle is at its shortest. Tobad they couldn't make a CV axle where the shaft had a telescoping action, allowing it to stretch and compress.
 

Last edited by burningsun; 06-08-2009 at 10:19 AM.
  #13  
Old 06-09-2009, 10:48 AM
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Does anyone know what the spline count is on the front CV of 97 and up blazers what about the spline count on the ZR2 package? Does anyone know the spline count on a 1500 series 2500 and 3500 full sizes? You may see what I'm thinking.. it maybe possible to use the 6 knuckle-bearing CV design of the bigger trucks, and have the shafts cut down or replaced with shorter shafts, For durabilty. I've come accross some a good deal on a 4.8L ls engine for $500. I can get a Higher milage 100,000 miles 5.3 for $50less. I am dropping the front diffential down, Relocating the lower Shock mount back away from the axle 3/4 inch and up 1 inch to keep it from getting maxed out. The axle drop maybe up to 2 inches depending on lower control arm. As the it may rub when in compression.. An inch will be easy to get and should be a big help, Two and its back to factory angles.
 
  #14  
Old 06-11-2009, 10:33 AM
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* update big update* I have been in contact with a company that makes CV axles for this type of aplication.. Its I am sending them an axle and they are going to make me a pair for me. I am going to be a test subject basically, Everyone here who has been turned off of the kits cause of the CV problems, IT IS TIME TO CHANGE YOUR MIND! This company makes axles for the 1500 that slip on the shaft not in the cup.. I am getting this done as a Research and Development deal.. Its going to cost me a little and I am subject to prototype failings.. They want me to be rough on them super rough, said that most of the 1500 people don't really get them in hard off road situations... OH I am SO HAPPY. These things are tougher than stock....
 

Last edited by burningsun; 06-11-2009 at 01:42 PM.
  #15  
Old 06-11-2009, 07:30 PM
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Hope it works out for you. I also hope that price is for 2 cause that is $$$ (saw the price you posted in another thread). Here's to hoping you can solve the ball joint troubles as well...
 
  #16  
Old 06-11-2009, 07:56 PM
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Ball joints are not a problem anyways.. who has problem with ball joints with these upper control arms?.. I did when I was using the ole T-bar crank everyone here is so proud of. My ride drives soo much better now with the RC kit.
 
  #17  
Old 06-11-2009, 08:29 PM
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Ball joints are an issue on stock trucks. Lifting (regardless of upper control arm used) only increases the wear. The use of better ball joints lessens the frequency of replacement, but it is an inevitable thing. The upper control arm available in the RC kit is the best part of the whole kit, but for $429... The torsion keys are really a waste as you can go beyond the safe limit for your CV shafts with stock keys... And by the time you get custom CV axles to go along with the RC kit, you might as well have saved up a bit more $$$ and just gone with a 6" suspension lift.

How long have you had that RC lift...?
 
  #18  
Old 06-12-2009, 10:33 AM
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I've put probably 1500 miles maybe more in the month its been on. I just want to clarify that I did not want the 6 inch kit. I would have bought that if I did. If I wanted that much lift i would go solid axle. Probably cost me less to do the solid axle anyhow.. But why would I want to go that tall, With the 2 inch kits you get more center clearance in the front end.. with the 6 inch fit kits you still have stock front clearance cause of the dropped cross member. And the suspension travel is the same, like setting blocks between a leaf spring and axle for lift in a leaf spring solid front end.Yeah you can get bigger tires in that way, I will never put anything bigger than 32 on my car. If I can get a 31x11.5 Thats what I will stick with.. I couldve spent for the bigger lift but would still be running those cheesey 3 bearing CV axles.. The key here is that the axles are UPGRADES, meaning STRONGER, BETTER, MORE TRAVEL!!
 
  #19  
Old 06-12-2009, 02:18 PM
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these upgraded axles may work for you, but i really cant imagine the average joe spending this much money for a 2" lift. im not sure what kind of deal you worked out with the axle company but even if you get these new axles at a very cheap rate everyone else will be paying full price and IMO it just seems like a waste of money when there are plenty of other ways to gain 2" of lift.
 
  #20  
Old 06-13-2009, 02:27 PM
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to be honest I can get 3 to 3 1/2 inches with these kits, but the axle limits, and the bumpstop help limit also, not the ball joints like with stock arms and t-bar crank, Yeah ball joints wear out its the nature of ball joints. Replace when need be. But I can tell ya right now with the new control arms the ball joints are in much better angles now. At over 3 inches of lift the camber will get about 2 degrees negative. Which is a little better than stock arms and 1.5 inch t-bar crank. I'm not going to run it at 3 but its nice to know I will be able to..
 
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