Okay Im new to doing lifts.. Ive been looking around at many different kits and I really like the 2" rough country lift from what I see. I just want your insite on whether its worth it or not. This is my daily driver and I just want to lift it up a bit and throw some bigger tires under it. Its nothing Im taking mud bogging type deal. I dont like body lifts so thats why I want to do a suspension lift, plus I need new shocks, control arms, and torsion mounts anyhow so.. this is it: http://www.roughcountry.com/chevy_4wd_s10.html

I just replaced my axles, cvs, idler arm, pitman arm, and a few other things. How much stress will be on these and is it something I should be worried about?
What do you guys think of the 2" rough country lift?
Anything else I should worry about?
How much stress will I be putting on my torsion bars?
Also how stiff of a ride compared to stock will this be?
Any suggestions or tips?

Thanks!

 

Over all I like my kit.. I just don't like my CV axles.. I have found companies that make solutions now but its mostly custom fabing costing 1000 for each side... this is not per axles but a custom long throw front end.. about 2 month wait to get this... where the slip will be on the shaft not in the cup. Anyway off subject.. just look around the forum we have a ton of threads going on about the same kit.. Matter of fact I have a brainstorming thread over the axle fixes

 

This has been discussed several times, run a quick search...

I believe you will find the 2" Susp Lift to not be worth the price. For about 200 bucks you can get a 2" Body lift as well as crank your tbars for free to add another 1.5". That's a total of 3" of lift for 200bucks and an afternoon of working on your truck. The 2" susp lift are also very hard on the front end of our trucks... just something to think about.

Edit** What year is your truck? I'm assuming it is 4x4..

 

I'VE done both lifts.... T-bar crank and now Rough Country 2inch.. Sorry to say but the t-bar crank is NOT the way to go... Ok yes CV Axles get in bad binds when fully extended, ie tire off the ground or close to it. But with the Tbar crank your camber is so negative the endside of your tires wear out super fast, And the ball joints are pretty much angled as far as they will go,.. wearing them out real quick. Oh and try to get an alignment to hold longer than 25 miles.. At least that is my experience... ANd the CV axles are about to be a non issue. You can drop the differential or wait for the prototype Axles that are being made for me to be manufactured and go on sale

 

I just put in the 2" lift from Rough Country,It was real screwy.First of all you need to use sticky weights on the inside of your front wheels because the new controll arms will spin the weights around"yes I have factory wheels".Then you need too use a 7/32 spacer so you don't have to crank the max out of you T bars if you crank the hell out of them you can NOT line up the front end right and you'll burn off your new tires in 5k miles.S o i got mine to look level and with the spacers I got a good line on my front end.The kit wants you too max out your front end to get the clearence,it will work but your doing a wheelie and bad tire wear.In the end it looks ok but I get a little frame rub on the left side when I turn and hit a good bump at the same time.Also you don't need to use the new keys because all they do is get you the extra 1/2 inch which you can't really max out anyway.

 

yeah just crank the tbars 1.5". Like dougie said with the kit you have to max out the tbars to get the lift. so your doing the same thing as you could without the lift. Save yourself the money and get a body lift and crank the tbars 1.5". Then you can clear 31s. I had that setup for on mine for a year. I never had any problems with alignment. My tires are worn evenly. I didnt even have to get an alignment after cranking the tbars like most do.

 

Thanks for all the responses guys. Its helped a lot. I forgot to mention mine is a '97 4x4. Anyhow..Overall Id be better with a body lift + crank the tbars or something more less like 6" lift then its not so bad Im assuming.

 

if you go to my photos you can see pictures of my truck with the 2inch kit on my car and pictures of the t-bar crank set up on my car. In both setups I still have a add a leaf in the back so with the shackles it sets up 3.25 inches in the back not the 2... I can raise the front up to match the back but it runs 2.xx degrees negative camber. I have gained over half an inch in the front over the t-bar crank,, It it drives better. I know a kid with t-bar crank/ shackle and body lift on a S10, looks good. But he is having the CV axle issue also.
If you don't mind replacing parts or turning a wrench on a regular basis, lift your truck, if not go buy something else to but 31 on... they really made the 4door blazers more of a minivan alternative. But put a locker in the rear like me and lift it throw the 31 mud tires on and have a ball. I wish they would have made a 4door ZR2 package. Oh and if your thinking of doing this on the cheap, be careful lifting will put strain on other parts, sometime you will need to replace or upgrade the cv axles. Kinda like needing to put a new or bigger clutch in a mustang gt that you put a nitrous kit to.

 

I have a 95 blazer 4 door 4wd and i was looking into the rough country 2" kit too. ive been trying to find all the reviews on it and what problems people have had with it. any sudgestions on what i should do or look for for a lift that wont have any problems

 

IMO i would just go with a body lift that way your suspension is not affected one bit and you still get the 2" of lift your after.