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Different torsion keys?

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Old 10-01-2013, 03:01 PM
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Default Different torsion keys?

Are there difference in torsion keys that allow for more lift? I see kits to replace the keys, but I guess I don't understand how they work unless the pitch is different. What's the difference between these 2" and 3" lift keys listed on eBay? If I've already bottomed out my keys, do I need new keys or new bolts, or new torsion bars to get lift?
 
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:15 PM
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Yes the keys have different degrees of angle to them which results in more or less lift. If your keys are maxed out and you didn't get much lift your tbars may be worn out. Look into a set of ZR2 bars they are a bit stiffer and require less tightening to get more lift which will give you a better ride.

I stole this part but apparently, the GM keys are all made from the same
CASTING #, 15530030, then machined to their index angle, color coded, and assigned the below part #'s:

GM Part # Angle Color Code
15045171 4 DEGREES PURPLE
15657374 9 DEGREES BLUE
15603963 12 DEGREES ORANGE
15592573 14 DEGREES GREEN
15592574 18 DEGREES WHITE
 
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:41 PM
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To add to what Rex posted, the torsion bar keys also have an RPO code. If you can find a VIN decoder you can find what keys your truck came with factory. For example my 96 came with 2 orange keys, RPO FF6 (LH) and FF7 (RH).

I also had a ZR2 Blazer for a short while that came with one that was factory equiped with one yellow FF4 (LH) and one blue FK3 (RH). The keys actually have a painted color dot on the bottom of the key, although time may have erased it from yours if you cannot see it.

Like Rex said, if your torsion bars are maxed out and still saggy, then I'd recommend trying to find higher spring rate torsion bars. This info from an old thread might help a bit in finding thicker torsion bars:

Originally Posted by jsmz View Post
Yep, first off the chilton manual says to push the bar forward into the control arm, drop it out of the cross member and pull out the back. but after droping the bar, its at an angle that doesnt like to pull out

I have a better way, tap both bars forward enough to drop the keys out. then unbolt the two cross member bolts & drop that out. then pull the bars straight out the back.

now that ive said that here is the list of bars gm made
Part Number Bar Dia. NOM Torque
LH 15956501 26.63mm 1052
RH 15956502 26.63mm 1052
LH 15956503 27.94mm 1276
RH 15956504 27.94mm 1276
LH 15956505 29.36mm 1450
RH 15956506 29.36mm 1646
LH 15956509 30.69mm 1883
RH 15956510 30.69mm 1883
LH 15956511 32.51mm 2305
RH 15956512 32.51mm 2305

The old ones had settled two inches since i got it. they were the 27.94mm bars. Put in the 30.69mm bars off a 03 zr2 with 33,xxx miles. I must say, it drives more like a 4x4. feels alot more stable going over bumps.
 
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Old 10-01-2013, 03:49 PM
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I have FF4(LH) and FK3(RH) torsion bars. Not sure how this translates into the part numbers or angles that I have or which ones that I need to buy.
 
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Old 10-02-2013, 09:51 AM
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Like both Rex and I said, you would probably get better results finding a pair of torsion bars from a ZR2 rather than putting in new keys. If you would rather replace the factory keys you can buy aftermarket keys which will be higher index than any of the factory key. I don't know the angle pitch of the after market keys that come in the various lift kits, but I'm fairly certain that any of them will allow you to lift your front end a fair bit. Even on saggy torsion bars you could probably get above safe angles where you'll chew through CV joints regularly.

Whichever route you choose to go with your lift, just make sure that you know you're taking your truck out of it's designed specifications, and it will cause added stress on all the front end components. I'm not recommending againt it, I just like to make sure that people know what they're getting themselves into with lifting their trucks.
 

Last edited by El_Beautor; 10-02-2013 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 10-16-2013, 09:08 PM
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[QUOTE=rexmburns;602342]Yes the keys have different degrees of angle to them which results in more or less lift. If your keys are maxed out and you didn't get much lift your tbars may be worn out. Look into a set of ZR2 bars they are a bit stiffer and require less tightening to get more lift which will give you a better ride.

I stole this part but apparently, the GM keys are all made from the same
CASTING #, 15530030, then machined to their index angle, color coded, and assigned the below part #'s:

GM Part # Angle Color Code
15045171 4 DEGREES PURPLE
15657374 9 DEGREES BLUE
15603963 12 DEGREES ORANGE
15592573 14 DEGREES GREEN

what brand of light bar is that I like it. I have a red 97 blazer just like that only stock cuz the motor is sucking all my spare money out of me when I wante to do other stuff to it. an will zr2 blazer 2door torsion bars fit in a non zr2 4 door cuz my blazer is very bouncy
 
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Old 10-17-2013, 09:55 AM
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I'm not sure about Rex's light bar. I kinda think the lights are mounted to his roof basket that recently had an unfortunate accident. You can double check through his build thread if you have a few hours. He's done tons of stuff to his truck.

The ZR2 torsion bars will fit perfectly in a 4 door Blazer. They're all the same length; just different thicknesses to give them different spring rates. Any S-series torsion bar is swapable into any S-series truck whether it's a pickup, Blazer, and any of the configurations.
 
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