I posted this same message in another similar topic. Hopefully you guys can help also.

Hey, new here. Just picked this topic among many to talk about my problem.

So I bought a nice 4 door 2001 4x4 blazer from some kid who couldn't move it with him across the country. This kid really wanted to make it look prettier than practical (LED Lights, wobbly roof rack) and told me he had a 3" lift kit installed. I don't know if the kit is really three inches, the shackles measure about 6&1/2 inches from center to center bolt. When I bought it the front wheels were cambered, extended torsion key was so tight it was more than uncomfortable to drive. I thought that loosening the torsion bars would help with the camber, but it didn't. My control arms are adjusted as forward as they can go and are still close to their vertical limit, I believe this is what's causing the camber.

Now my problem is that all these kits are for sell but what I think I want is a slightly extended control arm, maybe even half an inch will do. I'm having a hard time finding the stock length of the control arm and how to find what I need. Also I really like the bolted-on ball-joints and wouldn't want to change my control arm for one that only supports pressed ball-joints.

Any ideas?

Thanks
-John

 

When I did my lift (see my link below) I installed the Rough Country upper control arms for their improved geometry. With my ZW7 (softer) suspension, I maxed out my torsion bars but I don't think I hit the extra 1.5" I was hoping for. As such I am considering installing new t-bar keys and a bit longer shackle to get a bit more lift.

I too had trouble with the inner CV boots coming off. I was able to fix the passenger side with a big hose clamp and on the drivers side I went ahead and replaced the boot with a new neoprene one that is a lot more flexible. I'll replace the other inner boot the next time I have a reason to take out the axle. I might do the other boots while I'm at it.

When I purchased tires, I had the shop test fit both 30s and 31s. On the stock rims, the 31s rubbed the frame when the steering wheel was at full over so I had the 30s installed. When I need new tires, I might get 31s and add spacers (1" or 1.25") or get 2wd rims that have the appropriate backspacing so that I can turn the tires full over without rubbing.

BTW getting the shackle bolts out was a bear and I don't live where salt is used much on the roads. I used the CRC freeze off to help break them free.

What I regret is not doing a before and after measurement. So be sure to do that.

I have attached an excerpt from my 1999 GM service manual. It says that 1 turn of the torsion bar bolt is about 6 mm = 2.4".

 

Hey, so I found on RockAuto that the standard "maximum length" of the upper control arm is 11", so when comparing parts I found one that the part No MEVOTECH GS20354 & MEVOTECH GS20355 (see link below for part specs) had a 14.25" maximum length! this would have solved my camber but upon measuring the received part it measure 11" long... Did I specify that I don't what the 'rough country' extended control arm with pressed-ball-joints because I don't have a press and really like the MOOG heavy duty balljoints that fit the stock control arm.

So... my other options are to make myself a bracket that would offset the mount where the stock control arm mounts to the frame. It would lean up against the frame and have two new "ears" lower to fix my camber... Iunno, buddy says he can do it. But that option would be best kept last. We just thought up of having a 'Lift Knuckle' that raises the spot where the upper balljoint mounts, and this would solve my camber with the least of hiccups. But I can only find them for 2wd1500s & bigger GMCs.

Can anybody redirect me to a forged 2001 4wd blazer "lift knuckle"? 2.5" to 3"

thanks.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...DeygPH5Xdfgxvy

 

If your buddy is a welder, maybe he can cut your control arms and extend them a little? Maybe even change the ball joint angle a bit so it doesn't wear the ball joints out so fast? Heck, if he's a competent fabricator, he can probably build some better control arms from scratch.

 

Yeah he's a very competent welder, he also taught be everything I know about automotive mechanics. He's a real 'by the book' mechanic that I trust much more that the average professional car mechanic (torquing everything to specs for example).

anyway, I'm not too sure about him feeling comfortable extending the existing control arms, probably not. Also we had hardcore rust problems in canada, I would have to get the part painted and cooked professionally afterwards, same goes for the bracket. For sure he can build a new one but he would probably feel better if we can find an industrial made part to fix the problem, so he doesn't have to stress out about both control arms being identical.

Do you have any links to anybody who's done this before? build longer control arms. and/or a lowering bracket to mount the upper control arm on? or any leads on where I can find the lift-knuckle I'm looking for?

thanks for your support.

 

No, unfortunately I don't. Keep in mind, though, if you only lower the top control arm mounting without changing the lower one, you'll end up with different camber change with suspension movement than what was originally engineered into it, which will likely cause tire scrubbing and toe changes. Ideally, both control arms would be lowered and the front differential dropped, like with a commercial lift kit.

 

I had to replace the upper ball joints on my Blazer on which I installed the RC upper control arms. I was able to install them easily and I don't have a press. I think I used my vice and some short pieces of pipe.

 

So anyway I put my blazer back to stock length to fix the camber. But I'm still curious about the rough country "improved geometry" control arms. Are they really same length and just hvae an adjusted balljoint angle? do you mind measuring from ear to ear the length of your roughcountry control arm so I can compare with the stock one? thanks.