good body lift?
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 456
From: louisville/bowling green, kentucky
RE: good body lift?
so if your saying that the factory hitch in on the bumper instead of below it
then no you couldnt use the factory because of the mounts being longer which would make it have less support
in other words, you run the risk of pulling your bumper off
correct me if im wrong
then no you couldnt use the factory because of the mounts being longer which would make it have less support
in other words, you run the risk of pulling your bumper off
correct me if im wrong
BF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,746
From: Raleigh, NC
RE: good body lift?
Negative. The body lift only works if you have a Class I or II hitch. A Class III hitch uses all for frame bolts and has integrated bumper brackets for that reason. This means you simply cannot install the body lift bumper lift brackets. I would say based on BDS's instructions that the factory hitch was Class II. (never heard of welding an aftermarket hitch though...mine definitely isnt 
)
Heres a pic:
The only solution I've been able to come up with is to cut the hitch's bumper bracket (so it doesnt affect the integrity of the hitch), and weld either them or the kit brackets 2' higher..but I've been rolling hitch-less for a few months since my body lift install [&o]
)Heres a pic:
The only solution I've been able to come up with is to cut the hitch's bumper bracket (so it doesnt affect the integrity of the hitch), and weld either them or the kit brackets 2' higher..but I've been rolling hitch-less for a few months since my body lift install [&o]
BF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 3,746
From: Raleigh, NC
RE: good body lift?
It should be pretty clearly labeled, either with a class rating or with a weight rating.
Or if you can see the hitch mounts like in my pic, Class II only utilizes the forward most 2 bolts (closest to shackle), and you retain the stock bumper bracket. Class III is like my pic. Havn't seen a class IV installed on a blazer
From: Wikipedia - Tow Hitch
A trailer hitch typically bolts to the chassis of the vehicle. In the U.S. there are a few common classes: I, II, III, IV, and V that are defined by the SAE.
Class I - up to 2,000pounds (907kg), and II - up to 3,500lb (1,588kg), are for designed for light loads.
Class III - up to 5,000pounds (2,268kg), and IV - up to 10,000lb (4,536kg), can accommodate much larger trailers such as campers, boats, etc.
A trailer hitch typically bolts to the chassis of the vehicle. In the U.S. there are a few common classes: I, II, III, IV, and V that are defined by the SAE.
Class I - up to 2,000pounds (907kg), and II - up to 3,500lb (1,588kg), are for designed for light loads.
Class III - up to 5,000pounds (2,268kg), and IV - up to 10,000lb (4,536kg), can accommodate much larger trailers such as campers, boats, etc.
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