lol I will. I'll go scout campus for one tomorrow.

 

Im not worried about the frame being visible. I will spay it flat black to match along with any hardware from a BL kit.

After driving my truck around for a day the front measures at 33 1/4 and rear sits at 32 3/4''. odd how the rear ended up comming down a 1/4. Also I have no interior in the truck right now, so i wonder if once all my interior is finished I just may have to throw on the shackles. Also due to the wider fenderwells in the front it does, sort of, appear that the front is higher, so i may throw the shackles in the rear if it ends up bugging me enogh for that reason alone.

Im not afaid to cut fender wells if needed. (im sure i can find a how to somewhere) Did you throw on fender flares after or anything to hide the cut?

I think those rimes will be perfect. And a major steal at that price. Question though.... what is the weight difference over stock?

Gonna have to flat those babbies out too. Got to keep it all the same!

 

I doubt the weight would be much different. There's more material on the alloy wheels than on the steel. My old alloys with tires (same kind as yours) feel about the same as the stock steel spare wheel/tire.

I haven't covered my cuts yet but I plan on doing something eventually. There's two different methods I've seen. Some people cut a thin triangular section out and then bend the remaining sliver back to cover the hole. This looks better because there is still metal to help cover up what you just cut out. The picture of the white truck below is an example of this.

The other way I've seen it done (and the way I did it) is to just cut everything off without leaving any extra to help cover. It's easier b/c you only have to make one cut although it's more noticeable. My truck is the red one in the pics below. I'd love to find some fender flares to help cover it up but flares for these trucks are REALLY hard to find.













And yes, flat black is awesome. I need to find some better flat paint to redo my wheels (glossier than I wanted and the tire mounter scratched the lip in some places)

 

You should try the Rust-Oleum truck bed-liner spray paint. I painted my spare tire and frame with that stuff and it looks awesome!!! Plus it's very hard to scratch or chip.

 

Can someone tell me where i can get a 2" rear block kit w/ u bolts for a 2004 ZR2 blazer

 

you can get them at advance auto... but you'd be lowering your truck 2" if you put blocks on... lowering a zr2 would defeat the purpose of having a zr2...

 

I see...i just bought this Blazer and wondering how to raise the rear so it will be level??

 

Have you ever though about filling the holes in the fenders with a glob of bondo? Or you think that would shake out over time? I think your cuts are straighter than if i was to try and fold over a piece of metal. I just see that as to time consuming to try to get it to look any where near decent. (im can be picky) The flat black i used was John Deere Blitz Black. I didnt use the hardener they offered and I can tell its going to scrape off the wheels when they get mounted to a clamp, But I plan on having new rims before that time. And i will paint the rims after my tires are mounted. I have heard that rustolem mentioned elsewhere, i may have to go with that for the frame. I dont have enough paint left from the body to do the frame. And I have to drive out of state (CA to AZ) to get more paint. (not legal for sale in cali)

You think its possible, that when i cranked my torshion bars, that it leveled out my truck and corrected the bad camber on my tires? I had minor inner wear on my tires before, and now my tires humm like crazy. Im wondering if this is due to them riding flatter on the road. I know I need to get it aligned but thats gonna happen when i bring in the rims and tires, do it all at once.

 

Cranking your t-bars isn't going to fix your camber problem. It will just add to your bad alignment.

 

^ yup ^