I just cranked my tbars and the one on the passengers side went fine. When I went to do the drivers side, it was extremely hard to turn. I only got 2.5 turns before I stopped to check if this was common for it to be so hard on one side. The truck appeared normal before I started (no sagging other than the normal nose down look) and I am only looking for about 4 turns to level it out a bit. At this point I have both sides at 2.5 turns and the truck is still up on blocks. I understand that I'm tighting the bar and there will be tention working against me but the passangers side was what I expected and the drivers side I thought I was going to snap the wrench or bolt.

Thanks

 

Well, if your on blocks you should have the wheels off the ground. So with that being said, the only real advice I can offer ya is to spray the adjuster bolt real good with a product like PB blaster. I sprayed mine the night before I tinkered with mine, and with a 92 model they turned like it was nothin'. Someone else will probley chime in soon, probley with a better insight.

 

You are doing the cranking with the weight off of the front suspension aren't you? That will make a night and day difference in the muscle required to turn the bolt.

 

I have the truck up on blocks and the front tires removed. I am replacing the tie rods and figured it would be a good time to crank it up since I will have to get an alignment. Would the best way to tell how much lift I have given it is to measure from center of the hub to edge of fender? I read somewhere on these forms that it should be around 19" (I have to look it up again) Of course for an accurate measurement the tire should be on and truck on the ground. I'm thinking of putting on shackles to raise the rear. I want to keep it level so maybe an 1" or so. I'm afraid the 2" will put the rear higher than the front. Any ideas is greatly appreciated.

 

So... just to be sure here... the front suspension is "unloaded" right? In other words... you don't have the jack stands under the bottom A-arms?
As long as the front suspension is dangling in the air, you should have a pretty easy time turning those bolts. Maybe try removing the offending bolt and cleaning and lubricating it... just remember to count those turns.

 

the rear usually sits about 2" higher than the front from factory so after you crank your tbars 1.5" you should be set if you want a level look.

 

The jack stands are under the frame so the suspension is dangling. I will probably take the bolt out and clean it. I will count the turns, but would the way of measuring to make sure it stays level from left to right work? I'm still looking for the thread that talked about it.

 

You just gotta drive it around to flex the suspension. Then measure from the center of the wheel cap straight up to the bottom of the fender trim. Adjust accordingly.

 

Alright I got them adjusted so I have 20" from center of wheel cap to top of fender (that should be about 1"). That leaves me with only about 2 or 3 more threads of adjustment before the bolt is all the way in. Is that sound about right to everyone? I haven't been able to find the thread that talked about standard height from center to fender but I believe it was 19". Just being careful not to do too much and wear out the front end.

Thanks to all for putting up with all the questions and helping me out.