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2000 with a relay type click that stops when brake is pressed

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Old May 11, 2018 | 05:20 PM
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Default 2000 with a relay type click that stops when brake is pressed

Hello all, I'm new to the forum. I picked up the cherry bomb last Sunday. It has a click that sounds like a relay under the passenger side dash that starts and stays consistent until I apply the brakes. It stops when the brakes are pressed unless I turn the blinker on it keeps clicking. Any suggestions?
 
Old May 12, 2018 | 01:33 PM
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Welcome to the forum. The first thing I'd do is remove the lower dash panel and find exactly what component is clicking. Let us know what it is so we can test if that part is bad or if something else is. Much easier to find an electrical problem when it's noisy. Better than smoke signals.
 
Old May 12, 2018 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty Nuts
Welcome to the forum. The first thing I'd do is remove the lower dash panel and find exactly what component is clicking. Let us know what it is so we can test if that part is bad or if something else is. Much easier to find an electrical problem when it's noisy. Better than smoke signals.
OK, will do and I'll get back.
 
Old May 12, 2018 | 07:32 PM
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Most likely the clicking is coming from the relay behind the glove box. If you lower the glove box door you can access it. There is a spring type lever in the upper left part of the glove box that stops the door from falling all the way down. Push up on the lever and your glove box door will come all the way down. If it is that relay clicking, the most likely fix will be replacing the multi-function switch (turn signal lever).
 
Old May 16, 2018 | 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by rockp2
Most likely the clicking is coming from the relay behind the glove box. If you lower the glove box door you can access it. There is a spring type lever in the upper left part of the glove box that stops the door from falling all the way down. Push up on the lever and your glove box door will come all the way down. If it is that relay clicking, the most likely fix will be replacing the multi-function switch (turn signal lever).
OK, it is the relay behind the glove box. See the picture I attached. It's the ones in the red circle.
 
Old May 16, 2018 | 10:30 PM
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I'm not normally one that says change a part without further testing, but I would slightly lean towards suggesting you replace your multi-function switch.

First, it is probably one of the top failure points on these trucks.

Second, I had the same exact situation/symptom and a new multi-function switch fixed it.

EDIT: I should further point out that the problem seems to lie in the internals of the switch itself and there are so many circuits involved with the switch, not to mention the Body Control Module (BCM) logic, I can't say for certain if normal troubleshooting would yield definitive results on this. If you want to try and diagnose, you'll need a DVOM, a test light would be nice, and a good wiring diagram...and patience. I/we can try to work with you on it. Who knows, maybe it's just some dirty contacts.

I really hate to say just replace the part. The thing runs ~$100 or so.
 
Attached Thumbnails 2000 with a relay type click that stops when brake is pressed-2330833-007__ra_p.jpg  

Last edited by rockp2; May 16, 2018 at 10:54 PM.
Old May 21, 2018 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rockp2
I'm not normally one that says change a part without further testing, but I would slightly lean towards suggesting you replace your multi-function switch.

First, it is probably one of the top failure points on these trucks.

Second, I had the same exact situation/symptom and a new multi-function switch fixed it.

EDIT: I should further point out that the problem seems to lie in the internals of the switch itself and there are so many circuits involved with the switch, not to mention the Body Control Module (BCM) logic, I can't say for certain if normal troubleshooting would yield definitive results on this. If you want to try and diagnose, you'll need a DVOM, a test light would be nice, and a good wiring diagram...and patience. I/we can try to work with you on it. Who knows, maybe it's just some dirty contacts.

I really hate to say just replace the part. The thing runs ~$100 or so.
Wow, that's familiar. My wife was just showing this issue to me yesterday. Is this relay clicking with ignition shut off? It didn't seem to stop, at least not while we were sitting there. Opening the door and getting out seemed to stop it. Not doing it this morning. Does anyone know what the relay is actually for?
 

Last edited by LesMyer; May 21, 2018 at 09:47 AM.
Old May 21, 2018 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Lesmyer
Wow, that's familiar. My wife was just showing this issue to me yesterday. Is this relay clicking with ignition shut off? It didn't seem to stop, at least not while we were sitting there. Opening the door and getting out seemed to stop it. Not doing it this morning. Does anyone know what the relay is actually for?
The relay is the Turn Signal Lamp Flasher. But that part is not the problem. With no hard data/tests to back up my assumptions (besides changing the Multi-Function Switch and the problem being solved), the issue seems to me to be a result of an internal circuit problem of the "Hazard" part of the Multi-Function Switch. I kept my old one for about a year on the shelf and was going to delve into its circuitry, but never got around to it and ended up tossing the bad part.

I did not experience the problem with the ignition switch off, but if my assumption is correct, in that it's a circuit problem with the "Hazard" part, it could make sense that the problem could happen with the ignition off. But, that is only speculation at best.
 
Old May 21, 2018 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rockp2
The relay is the Turn Signal Lamp Flasher. But that part is not the problem. With no hard data/tests to back up my assumptions (besides changing the Multi-Function Switch and the problem being solved), the issue seems to me to be a result of an internal circuit problem of the "Hazard" part of the Multi-Function Switch. I kept my old one for about a year on the shelf and was going to delve into its circuitry, but never got around to it and ended up tossing the bad part.

I did not experience the problem with the ignition switch off, but if my assumption is correct, in that it's a circuit problem with the "Hazard" part, it could make sense that the problem could happen with the ignition off. But, that is only speculation at best.
Thanks for the info.
 
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