Here is the problem I am experiencing with my 4 wheel drive. It works RARELY. The last week it was working with 4 hi and 4 lo without a problem(I think it only worked after I disconnected my battery to install the headlight) for a few times then started to do what it always does. The problem is when you push 4lo, both lights blink and sometimes goes into 4lo, sometimes nothing, no lights nothing. When it does go into 4lo, half the time only the 4lo lamp is illuminated, other times both 4hi and 4lo are illuminated. Say it does go into 4lo AND both lights ARE illuminated, after driving about 15 feet it switches from both lights being illuminated to just 4lo being illuminated. When you push 4hi, it rarely works, dont hear the motor or anything. You only hear the motor working when you push 4lo or 2hi, and the transfer case control module click only with you click 4lo or 2hi. I checked all but 4 wires from the transfer case control module in the dash(under the radio) to there ending location, checking for resistance to rule out an electrical problem. The only wires I didnt test were the park neutral switch output/grounding input, the vehicle speed signal from the vcm, and 4 wheel drive low range switch to the vcm, "assuming" they are good. The only problem I encountered was that there is about 120 to 180 ohms of resistance in a wire that is shared by 4 grounds from the TCCM. The power ground, chasis ground, the 2 motor grounds are all spliced into 1 wire. The engine ground at the end of the this particular wire is good(G102, 104). Across the connector(C102) is good. It is between the connector(C102) and the TCCM connector causing resistance. And the problem is, this wire and splice is completely behind the instrument cluster, I removed the instrument cluster to see nothing but more plastic, how do i even get to the splice? But will this problem be causing the symptoms I am having? It sounds like the actual TCCM is acting up but the resistance seems a bit high. I have tried to explaing as cleary as i could, any questions please ask. Diagrams below.

http://i55.tinypic.com/alhv7d.jpg
http://i52.tinypic.com/jutjxg.jpg
Splice location - http://i54.tinypic.com/1gr4lf.jpg

 

Looks like S230 is on top of your cluster and right underneath the dash. But before you go to that trouble can you pull the connector from your TCCM and check the wiring between C102 and Pin D10, D12, & D13...should be around 1 ohm....if your getting the high ohm reading there its in your harness... .06amps ain't gonna do nutten.....Have you checked codes for you TCCM?

 

also check where i have annotated in this document, as it is also tied in with your lighting system

 

Thanks for the reply guys. Yes Mag I have checked from connector 102 to pin C10, D10, D12, D13, and actually got a higher ohm around 170 ohms. Across the conector(C102) I got around .3 - .5 ohms, so the connector is good, and from the connector(C102) straight to the motor ground is around .5ohms. Thats why I asked where the splice location S230 was cause the high reading is between the connector and the pins on the TCCM. No I havent checked the codes on the TCCM, I dont know how, haha. And I prob cant do it now right? Since I have disconnected it and all?
And High tech, I will also check from the fuse to the front axle switch/front axle switch to the computer, and from the fuse to the transfer select switch. I think I already checked from the fuse to the select switch but I will double check, but I didnt check the axle switch.
Thanks for the suggestions.
@ HIGHTECH - I got battery voltage at the switch so thats good.

 

The high resistance is causing the Electric Shift Motor to be inop. The service manual even calls for a repair if there is high resistance in that very circuit, eaiser said than done....seeings you can't check codes & you have it torn down, can you temporarly bypass the S230 splice with some wires going directly to the C102? That would tell you if the TCCM is good/bad, the Shift Motor good/bad or the Selector High/Low switch is good/bad....if not, I would put it all back together and throw an OBD11 scanner on it and see what codes come up.....then go from there...

 

Yea mag I was thinking that today. I was going to ground the TCCM pins directly and see what happens. I had my dash tilted, you know when you loosen all the bolts and it tilts downwards towards the rear, and was just looking at it for an hour.. then I was like okay putting it back together now. When I actually get around to fixing the problem I would want to borrow someones car cause I dont want to rush that. A lot of connectors have to be undone and so on. And yea deff easier said than done, you think it would be easier when you have that dash tilted? noooooo, that harness is tucked away deep in there.

 

I thought I came up with some brilliant idea but after thinking about it, NOT....you could test your 4hi but as soon as you switched to 4lo it'd blow your 30a circuit breaker.....sheeshs....i don't know man....kinda stuck in a hard place...your C10 is probably the culprit, power ground, that got hot and melted a few wires....I like it when they say "repair" ya right...tear the whole damn car apart....

 

Yea I know what your saying with the repair.. Today I made my own ground for the wires. I took paper clips, soldered them to 4 different wires, then soldered all those 4 wires together. This wire was no longer then 6 inches. I then took those 4 ends and pronged the back of the connector C10, D10, D12, D13, and put the other end straight to ground(used the bracket where the TCCM mounts to). I only had 3 ohms MAX, from the pins to ground after making my own ground. They were really around 1 - 3 ohms. Im not really good with knowing whats bad or not, but from 1 to 3 ohms is around a 7 amp difference... I think. Still after making this "new" ground path for the connector, still the same problem. I then looked at the actual TCCM. I looked for continuity between the pins on the computer and seen that C16(transfer case motor feed[clockwise]), D1(transfer case motor feed[counterclockwise], D12(ground), and D13(ground) all had continuity, less then 1.0 ohm's.