Did you probe around on other fuses to make sure the light lights up, most of the fuses in the panel will have power with the key on. Just double checking that we really dont have power there, now you need to probe all fuses anyway with key on and see if you can find any that you only get light on one side, meaning touch both sides of each fuse, if you get light on one side and not the other the fuse is popped. If you get any other than the crank fuse that have no power you should pull them and check for corrosion and if no corrosion is present then post what fuse it is in the chart on the inside of the panel, there may be some that only have power at certain times. Need to find a wiring diagram for the starter circuit so you can isolate the problem component or wire. If you dont want to mess around with replacing the ignition switch (if thats what is bad) you could always add a momentary toggle switch like a racecar and wire into the crank circuit right there in the fuse panel. You would still turn the key one but then push up on the toggle to crank the engine, its actually kind of cool with a hint of ghetto at the same time

 

Yeah of course i checked to make sure my test lamp was working and the ground was good - i used the courtesy circuit to confirm - i know, i need to probe both to see which is the supply side of the fuse.. i dont know if they alternate based on fuse panel layout - but i probed both to check - the courtesy was hot on top side. anyhow i checked both on crank - and nothing - i am sure nothing is comming into the circuit there. I had thought the exact same as you - to put in a toggle switch by pass to the crank circuit.. - if this is the only problem the switch because i am not experiencing other problems.. i hate to do this kinda rig.. but until i can get to replacing the switch - i am little upset i have to do it again after a year.. last two times the switch locked down the tranny and was causing flickering of dash lights.. - this time all looks good - i know the switch can cause multiple problems - just didnt expect to have to trash a switch again for this. - i will do the work this time - dont have the money to pay someone for the same repair 3 times on the same car -like i said i dont mind a car that has inherent problem - once every seven -eight years.. but now this is more often - its not even two.... grrrrrr its the only repair this car has had besides ball joints.. and that dexcool crap - but i did that my self for 155 - with new water pump and rad.... ---but when i took out the pump that was really clean--- i did do an alternator and battery along the way and that is it.. so it just the switch - or this car would be like bullet proof..

 

So I'm having the same problem with my 98 Chevy blazer I have the ignition switched replaced about a year ago and now it wont start at all. Someone did try to steal it last night bit they didn't turn on the passlock or cut any wires they oley got the cover off around the steering wheel idk why it wont start and just to be safe i reset the passlock and still nothing

 

my car started again today like clockwork.. - i could set the naval atomic clock based on this.... anyhow .. i am really thinking battery problem even though i had tested two different places.. i am gonna drop a new one..

 

i dont have any security stuff in mine.. but did all this start after the theft attempt?

 

No it started when I went to put all the covers back on around the wheel and gauges I'm going to go see if maybe something came loose or what but I can't see anything loose

 

So I fixed my no crank no start I went to my local Carquest and got a remote starter for 13 bucks and hooked it up I just have to pop my hood to start my Blazer now. I am thinking of selling it just to get out from under the problems

 

my blazer has been virtually bullet proof - so i am not sure i will ever let her go - i stick some money in her now and again but its in good shape - and she takes care of me mostly and i know from here the kinda things that can go wrong with her - now that i am past a fuel pump --and nss and starter and ignition switch in recent years - and i had some ball joints and brakes and brake sensors done a couple years ago - she feel like new...i am good for a couple a years yet..