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A/C not working 2000 Chevy blazer ZR2

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  #11  
Old 08-22-2024 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by BRAYDENQ85
I have used a test light and when the switch is turned to AC or MAX AC the test light will come on but the compressor won’t, light then goes away and doesn’t come back. I have chased as much of the wiring as I can and I don’t see anything chewed or ripped or damaged.
Swap the compressor relay with a known good equivalent.

George
 
  #12  
Old 08-22-2024 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
Swap the compressor relay with a known good equivalent.

George
I did, I tried swapping it with a few different ones and same result
 
  #13  
Old 08-22-2024 | 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by BRAYDENQ85
I did, I tried swapping it with a few different ones and same result
OK then now we need to test the ground side control of the relay from the PCM but first we need to identify the relay socket contacts:
  1. Pull the relay and with the ignition off, find out which socket has continuity with the dk green wire at the compressor
  2. Then turn the ignition on and find the two sockets with 12v
  3. The remaining socket is the control line from the pcm for the low side relay coil control

If you have an led test light (not incandescent) then clip to battery positve and probe that control socket and see if it lights up with a call for cooling. If you dont have that test light type then put the meter in dcv and connect between battery positive and that socket to see if you get a steady 12v during a call for cooling.

George
 
  #14  
Old 08-22-2024 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
OK then now we need to test the ground side control of the relay from the PCM but first we need to identify the relay socket contacts:
  1. Pull the relay and with the ignition off, find out which socket has continuity with the dk green wire at the compressor
  2. Then turn the ignition on and find the two sockets with 12v
  3. The remaining socket is the control line from the pcm for the low side relay coil control

If you have an led test light (not incandescent) then clip to battery positve and probe that control socket and see if it lights up with a call for cooling. If you dont have that test light type then put the meter in dcv and connect between battery positive and that socket to see if you get a steady 12v during a call for cooling.

George
alright thank you! This sounds helpful, I will be sure to try when I have a bit more day light tomorrow. But when you say check the continuity of the DK green wire how do you mean?
 
  #15  
Old 08-22-2024 | 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by BRAYDENQ85
alright thank you! This sounds helpful, I will be sure to try when I have a bit more day light tomorrow. But when you say check the continuity of the DK green wire how do you mean?
Meter in resistance mode, low scale and measure ohms. You will likely get less than one ohm.

George
 
  #16  
Old 08-22-2024 | 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeLG
Meter in resistance mode, low scale and measure ohms. You will likely get less than one ohm.

George
alrighty, I have a multi meter and a test light, I haven’t used the multi much but I’m sure I can figure out how to do resistance and low scale. Thank you again will post results tomorrow
 
  #17  
Old 08-23-2024 | 01:51 PM
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Default (Help! 2000 blazer ZR2 AC doesn’t work

It sounds like you might have a problem with the AC system. First, check the AC fuse and relay in the fuse box to make sure they’re not blown. Next, inspect the AC compressor to see if it’s engaging; if not, it could be a sign of a low refrigerant level or a faulty compressor. You might also want to check the refrigerant pressure using a gauge. Finally, look for any visible leaks in the AC lines or connections. If these steps don’t solve the problem, consider having a professional diagnose the issue.
 

Last edited by blaziblaza; 09-22-2024 at 02:06 PM.
  #18  
Old 08-23-2024 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by blaziblaza
It sounds like you might have a problem with the AC system. First, check the AC fuse and relay in the fuse box to make sure they’re not blown. Next, inspect the AC compressor to see if it’s engaging; if not, it could be a sign of a low refrigerant level or a faulty compressor. You might also want to check the refrigerant pressure using a gauge. Finally, look for any visible leaks in the AC lines or connections. If these steps don’t solve the problem, consider having a professional diagnose the issue.
did you read anything I already said?
 
  #19  
Old 08-23-2024 | 03:15 PM
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Below is the wiring diagram for the automatic control hvac (ECC or Electronic Climate Control) option. This schematic came from alldatadiy when I had an account for my old 2000 Bravada. If you have the manual hvac option, someone would need to provide the appropriate schematic.

Automatic Controls (ECC):
Originally Posted by swartlkk
Let us know how you make out on your review of the wiring. Circuit integrity checks should include:
  • AC Relay trigger to PCM/VCM
  • PCM/VCM thru high pressure switch to ECC (if so equipped)
  • PCM/VCM thru low pressure (cyclinng switch) to ground.
A quick & dirty check of the cycling & high pressure switches is to disconnect them and bridge the terminals across the switches. I would not recommend doing this with the compressor clutch plugged in. Use it only as a diagnostic point with a test light across the two terminals at the compressor clutch connector. Just be sure to use a similar gauge wire to the male pin thickness when bridging the connectors and connecting your test light to prevent damage to the connector terminals.
 
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