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  #11  
Old 01-24-2013, 06:28 PM
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You don't have the cable reversed on the battery by mistake do you? Or was there an additional wire/cable that also mounted to the battery? Beyond that, I would suggest you clean your connections, insure they are tightly secured. Trace them all the way to insure all contact points are clean and tightly connected. Did you take your generator off when you changed the gasket? Are the connections there good to go?
 
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Old 01-24-2013, 06:46 PM
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Yes, it ran well.
 
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:04 PM
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Thanks again guys. Ok it was something small. It ended up being the cable on left side of main fuse box in engine compartment. It was not grounded. Now I try and start and nothing just, good crank but no start. The spark plug wires are getting a spark I checked that. How do I make sure it's getting fuel? I sprayed carb cleaner in intake and still no start. Whats my next step on this now :-/
 
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Old 01-25-2013, 09:07 PM
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carb cleaner or starting fluid?
 
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:53 AM
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Starting fluid
 
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Old 01-26-2013, 01:27 AM
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I'm not sure about the '02, check your manual, but if it is the same as my engines (97 & 98), make sure you have the #1 & #3 spark plug wires in the correct terminals at the distributor cap. They are reversed on (closest to the front of the vehicle is #3 wire, 2nd terminal is #1 wire).

If that is good you might want to check your distributor position. Did you put the distributor back exactly in the position it came out? Noting that when you pulled it out it rotates counter-clockwise about 42 degrees as it comes out. If your not sure, put the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke. Take the distributor cap off and the metal tab on the rotor should be pointing at the little "6" on the distributor.
 
  #17  
Old 01-26-2013, 12:36 PM
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I think thats what its going to be rockp2. I didnt put in distributor exact same way. I will look at it tonite and adjust it. THanks and I will keep updated
 
  #18  
Old 01-26-2013, 01:46 PM
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OK, well to further the instructions a little (remember I am speaking from a '98 perspective, I don't know if anything is different in an '02), when you pull the distributor out your going to see a small round indent (not the roll pin hole) at the very bottom of the distributor shaft (not underneath the shaft, but at the bottom). About 2 inches above that you should see a small white paint mark (you may have to wipe off oil residue to see it). You need to line those up.

Then make sure you have the #1 cylinder at TDC on the COMPRESSION stroke. Otherwise, you will be 180 degrees out. The only way I know how to make sure with the engine in is with the help of a compression gauge (compression/vacuum gauge is even better). Personally I pull all the spark plugs to make it easier to turn the engine.

The metal tab on the rotor should be pointing close to the mounting screw (flat part of the top of the distributor should be facing forward (towards the grill). Use a long screwdriver inside the block and turn the oil pump shaft so it will be aligned with the shaft underneath the distributor shaft.

Look from above your distributor and you should see a "6" to the right of where the metal tab on the rotor is pointing. Ease the distributor down in the hole and you should see the rotor turn as the gears mate. When fully seated, the metal tab should be pointing at the "6". It can be off a tiny bit (couple degrees), but more than that and you have to pull the distributor out and try again until it is pointed correctly.

If I were in your shoes, and if you don't have the service manual, I would buy the subscription to alldatadiy.com for your specific truck to make sure everything I am listing matches up to what I am listing for a '98. I think it's only around $20.00 for a year.

Or maybe someone with more knowledge that I can weigh in and state whether or not it is the same procedure.
 

Last edited by rockp2; 01-26-2013 at 03:20 PM.
  #19  
Old 01-28-2013, 01:46 PM
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Just so I know for sure, the oil pump shaft is inside where you install the distributor? I stick a large flat screw driver in the hole and align it? Going to look at it tonite again. Thanks
 
  #20  
Old 01-28-2013, 02:21 PM
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Correct. After you get your distributor set up, look in the bottom of it at the shaft to see where the tab is sitting. Use a flashlight to look down the distributor shaft hole. Carefully use a srewdriver to turn the oil pump shaft so when you put the ditributor in they will mate correctly. Between that and trying to insure the rotor is pointing at the "6" when the distributor is fully seated, it might take a couple tries. There is a code I can't think of off the top of my head that will show if you have the distributor off a tooth or so. EDIT: I think it is P1345

Make sure your #1 cylinder is at TDC on the compression stroke before you put the distributor in.

P.S. Here is a DIY link from swartlkk that I just remembered was on the forum.

https://blazerforum.com/forum/tech-a...-timing-24373/
 

Last edited by rockp2; 01-28-2013 at 02:24 PM.


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