Dome/courtesy lights work with dimmer switch, but not with door switches
Roger that. I'm going to pull the switch, unplug the wires and check it with a test light.
If I've got power, it's the switch.
No power, I'll have to see why under the dash.
I know it's not the fuse because the dash dimmer switch is on the same fuse as the jamb switches, and it works.
I'm just waiting for the sun to drop a bit so it's not so dang hot outside.
I'll let ya'll know later.
If I've got power, it's the switch.
No power, I'll have to see why under the dash.
I know it's not the fuse because the dash dimmer switch is on the same fuse as the jamb switches, and it works.
I'm just waiting for the sun to drop a bit so it's not so dang hot outside.
I'll let ya'll know later.
Not necessarily, depends on where your going to ground your test light.. The reason why I suggested grounding both sides of the switch is because it can also be the wiring including the ground side from the switch to the frame.
If you get lights by grounding the upstream side of the switch then its either the switch or the ground wire from the switch to the frame
If you get no lights when you ground the upside side of the switch then its the wire from the upstream splice to the switch.
If you did get lights grounding the upstream side then ground the downstream side of the switch. If lights its the ground wire from the switch to the frame. If no lights then its the switch.
Another thing you can do is remove the switch and measure resistance as you engage it.
On trucks that are two decades old its the wiring a good percentage of the time.
George
If you get lights by grounding the upstream side of the switch then its either the switch or the ground wire from the switch to the frame
If you get no lights when you ground the upside side of the switch then its the wire from the upstream splice to the switch.
If you did get lights grounding the upstream side then ground the downstream side of the switch. If lights its the ground wire from the switch to the frame. If no lights then its the switch.
Another thing you can do is remove the switch and measure resistance as you engage it.
On trucks that are two decades old its the wiring a good percentage of the time.
George
Last edited by GeorgeLG; May 12, 2022 at 12:42 PM.
OK, so I removed both switches and they're working properly. I also noticed the glove box light isn't lighting either.
There is no voltage to the connector, so I've got a disconnect somewhere between the switch and probably in the wiring under the steering column.
BTW, the positive wire is brown, not white as the schematic indicates. The black wire ground ohms out at well, so all good there.
Tomorrow I'll start looking at wiring around the steering column. I'd bet it's a connector that pulled loose when I was changing the dimmer switch.
I'll keep you informed.
There is no voltage to the connector, so I've got a disconnect somewhere between the switch and probably in the wiring under the steering column.
BTW, the positive wire is brown, not white as the schematic indicates. The black wire ground ohms out at well, so all good there.
Tomorrow I'll start looking at wiring around the steering column. I'd bet it's a connector that pulled loose when I was changing the dimmer switch.
I'll keep you informed.
Note that if corrosion, frayed wires, or a poor connection is involved a compromised circuit will not reveal itself unless it’s under its full load. Because of this open circuit voltages and ground resistance with no current flowing sometimes doesn’t find the problem.
George
George
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mboggess
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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Jul 16, 2008 09:00 PM




