Hey All,

Have a 2000 LT Blazer I'm working on. Drivers side front door window will go down when switch on door is pushed. Trouble is, when wanting to close the window, it only travels a short distance (inch or less) and then stops. Will not move again unless I wait 5-10 minutes, and when it does move, same result. It has taken a LONG time to finally get the window closed again.

Thoughts, is this likely a window motor or switch issue? I have not had door panel off yet to troubleshoot, as vehicle is not near to my house and tools. Just seeing if anyone has experienced similar and what your findings may have been. Thanks for any input you can provide.

 

I have a similar issue with my passenger's side window but not as bad. My analysis is that the window is not moving as freely as it should and there is a circuit breaker somewhere, possibly inside the motor that flips after a certain amount of time. I'm just pulling mine out of mothballs and haven't gotten to that window yet so I have nothing more on it.

 

I've had similar symptoms. I would pull up tne switch panel in the door and push on the electrical connector. I thought this helped. But then I replaced the plug and the issue came back but with it only occrring once or twice.

I never thought it could be anything but in the switch. Now I don't know.

The first time the problem came back rain got on the switch from the window being open at a drive-thru.

 

There is a power window circuit breaker under the dash in the BBEC. It can be kind of a pain to get to if it is the first time you've removed the BBEC. But I would first do voltage drop tests starting at the motor to see if their is a reason the breaker is tripping.

 

I should expand...BBEC stands for Body Bussed Electrical Center. It's the same component where your RAP relay resides (Retained Accessory Power). I actually have mine removed right now and will post pics later tonight when I'm in garage.

The first thing you need to do is disconnect the battery before trying to access it! You'll be sticking a long screwdriver amongst many wires to undo the clip.

It requires removal of the kick panel directly above the pedals and the panel that holds the the parking brake handle cable assembly. You remove the panel and cable as a unit. Then there is one clip that allows you to lower the BBEC which is in the general area of behind the headlight switch but above parking brake pedal when pedal is in released position.

Again, I'll post pics.

 

I’ve had this issue and it only occurs when it is cold outside have not looked into it yet, but I will since driver door panel is needing help still

 

I found info that the Window regulator was replaced a few years ago at dealership service center, and stated that everything worked properly after that. Obviously current conditions tell me otherwise. now I have to determine what they call the 'regulator'.

 

The window regulator is the metal frame looking piece that the window sits on that mechanically raises and lower the window. In general the motor is part of the regulator as all one unit.

 

Picture time for anyone curious about the BBEC. NOTE: Before accessing disconnect your battery.

This is the BBEC after being dropped from it's retainer:



This is with the cover removed. Note the circuit breaker with the green paint on it is the Power Window Breaker for my '98 2-door ZR2. Check diagrams for your specific truck:


The screwdriver is pointing at the retainer that holds the BBEC in place. You'll have to be a bit of a contortionist to see it in its position. After you have removed the knee bolster and with use of a flashlight you'll see it. Not really easy the first time you do it. When you look up there you'll see two black hooks that you'll swear you have to disengage. Trust me, don't waste time trying to pry those out of place. In between those black hooks you'll eventually see a slot you can insert a screwdriver. With one hand giving the screwdriver a bit of a twist, use your other hand to lower the BBEC. It might require a bit of wiggling and up and down movement but the BBEC will easily come down. Just be gentle with the screwdriver because if you break the tab that retains where the screwdriver is inserted, you may end making a trip to the salvage yard. When you do it the first time you'll be surprised how easily you can unlock the BBEC from its position:


The next three pics show the panels you have to remove. When you remove the knee bolster you'll have to disengage the parking brake handle cable from the park brake pedal assembly. Just pay very close note how the cable is routed thru the wires. Don't just yank it out so the metal end snags on one of the smaller wires and damages it. Any questions, let me know:








Below pic shows hole where park brake routes through:


One last note, when your getting head buried in the dash, you'll be very close to the connector for the airbag. It's bright yellow and has a label on it and comes down from steering column. I personally disconnect it (after I've disconnected the battery) so I don't accidently set it off. Maybe I'm being over cautious, you decide on your own.

 

rockp2, great pics and instructions!

Just an FYI for other Blazer owners: The other name for the BBEC is the Body Relay Block (BRB) which is the name used in my 1999 GM Service Manual. I'm now wondering if more than one name has been used for this over the years.

As a supplement to what rockp2 posted, I also learned about the BRB/BBEC and posted what I learned about how to get access to it.
You can find it here: https://blazerforum.com/forum/lighti...nd-gen-103713/