I'll have to look into checking this to see if this is what is happening with my DS window. Thanks!

 

Doesn't that watch get in the way when you're reaching around up in there? And how hard is it to disconnect that parking brake cable? BTW, I remember when that was called an emergency brake.

 

Um, yeah, for sure. Wow!

I will have to weigh if I think it's worth this much digging versus just slapping in a new regulator/motor. I don't always have the patience to really poke and prod testing electrical stuff. Give me a big wrench to turn any day over a multi-meter. But definitely impressed with your documentation here.

 

That's interesting that they have the different names for the exact same unit. In my '98 GM tech manual it is BBEC. Guess someone had to earn their pay

I really like how your thread focused on that unlocking tab. The first time I did it a few years ago I wasted so much time trying to disengage those black hooks (without dash removed) which I couldn't do. I eventually found the one retainer and down the BBEC came easy as pie. Now with just unlocking the one retainer I can get panels removed and BBEC/BRB dropped in ~30 minutes.

Do you mean doing the voltage drop testing or just replacing the breaker? If you or anyone does replace the breaker and it fixes the problem, I'd love for someone to send me the bad breaker. I asked about breaker "weakening" on another forum. I have a DC power supply unit I can slowly raise the amps on to see if the breaker trips below it's rating, but I need a bad one to test.

Yeah, sometimes I have to take the watch off Very easy to disconnect the p-brake cable. Just release the brake and use the slack to slip the cable end out of the mechanism. Might be easier to also disconnect the single wire (for the p-brake warning light) from the tab on the mechanism. But as you pull the cable out, pay close attention to how it is routed. Also note that you are removing the knee bolster and the p-brake handle/cable as all one unit. You are not trying to separate the two. Don't try to remove the p-brake cable/handle from the knee bolster.

The fact your regulator was replaced once already tells me you either have a mechanical binding issue going on, or a circuit issue going on. But something is definitely wrong. The task is really not that daunting at all. How long ago did they replace the regulator?

 

I am glad to see someone else is having the same problem as I am finally. For the past couple of years I have had this problem, roll the window down and you have to wait a few minutes to roll it back up due to it not working. For some reason this just happens for the drivers power window. Most of the time my windows work great. Yesterday it was nice here in St. Louis so I powered my drivers side window down. After about a half an hour when I got home I tried to power the window up, and nothing happened. All the other windows work great. The drivers side was working as advertised, but suddenly nothing. I checked this morning and still nothing, but all other windows work fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated from you all with more knowledge than me. I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer LT, 4 door, power windows, right now 3 PW's. My Blazer has 260K miles on it and still running great with minor flaws.

 

The forum would rather you start your own thread. Helps from creating confusion (ex. different vehicles on same thread, etc). Plus it tends to get you help quicker. You've supplied most of the relevant info, so just start a new thread with that same info and add what type of testing equipment you have since that will be asked (multi-meter, test lamp). Start a new thread and we'll be able to help you troubleshoot the issue.

 

Your gonna need to get the door panel off and then check for power into the switch, than out to the motor, the ground. Then replace the offending item.

George