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Grounded OUt the Alternator by mistake

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  #11  
Old 02-07-2012 | 05:30 AM
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Oh yeah and stud to chassis voltage on the alternator when running was only 11 volts. Same as battery voltage when running.
 
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Old 02-07-2012 | 02:21 PM
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For what it's worth, when I turn the key to on, mine shows the battery light on the whole time. A bunch light up for testing, and go out. Battery light stays on until I start it, then it's off. Battery is 12.5V with a meter (over 24 hours since started).

At 0.3 ohms, you did not damage the ground circuit.

If battery and alternator were tested good, then you'd better start looking at that alternator plug. I know I've probed it before, leading to bad alternator... but I can't find the info right now.
 
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Old 02-07-2012 | 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuk Rhodes
For what it's worth, when I turn the key to on, mine shows the battery light on the whole time. A bunch light up for testing, and go out. Battery light stays on until I start it, then it's off. Battery is 12.5V with a meter (over 24 hours since started).

At 0.3 ohms, you did not damage the ground circuit.

If battery and alternator were tested good, then you'd better start looking at that alternator plug. I know I've probed it before, leading to bad alternator... but I can't find the info right now.
Awesome thanks for all the replies. Reading through the mechanics manual, the battery light should stay on until the vehicle is started. Supposedly the circuit closes and turns the light on if battery has low voltage or if the alternator is not putting voltage out. I haven't put the battery and alternator back in yet. But I can tell you that the battery light was not on when I was driving the voltage was down below 9 and the alternator was not charging. There has to be an open circuit through the instrument cluster for the light not to come on. Just hope that is the reason the alternator is not charging. I have had two different alternators in the vehicle. Neither produced any voltage but both passed tests outside the vehicle. Will post results from tonight
 
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Old 02-07-2012 | 04:59 PM
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When they test the alternator, they have a "known good" what ever is at the end of that plug, and a known RPM. The only real difference in your engine should be whats at the end of that plug. Assuming there is not an incredibly high load on it.
 
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Old 02-07-2012 | 09:10 PM
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ok, problem fixed. Believe it or not, had nothing to do with the alternator. Returned the new one, reinstalled the old one. Confirmed I had no battery light with key on and had no battery voltage at the 20 amp fuse in the fuse box for batt.

Took out the instrument cluster and looked at the light bulb. didn't see any issue with it. I started to follow the circuit through the flexible circuit board on the back of the instrument cluster and saw no breaks. I got to the area where the plug goes into the back of the flexible circuit board and low and behold the flexible circuit board had been folded back right at the last four connections. You could tell this fold had been done at the factory because only the very upper most of the connector had any marks or scratches from ever being connected and the underfolded part had no dust on it. it just must not have gotten a good enough connection when I had replaced it. First time, put the cluster back in, connected the battery, turned the key on and blam, battery light lit up. Turned the key and 14 volts through the system. So now I know if the bulb goes out on the dash, the alternator will not charge the system.

Got to tell you, I've solved a good number of issues by working with people through this board. Thanks again all for your help and replies. Now back to buying things I really want to put on my truck. My bull bar should be here in a week and I can't wait to get back to the beach and on the sand.
 
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Old 02-07-2012 | 09:47 PM
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Congrats! You didn't happen to get a picture of it?

I suppose it makes sense with the light, wish I could verify in the manual, but can't right now. Apparently it does not just indicate low batt, it says the charging system is working AND a low batt. That would be a reason it stays on when other test lights go off.

Hope I can remember that one, and I might start paying more attention to those lights while things are working
 
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Old 02-07-2012 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuk Rhodes
Congrats! You didn't happen to get a picture of it?

I suppose it makes sense with the light, wish I could verify in the manual, but can't right now. Apparently it does not just indicate low batt, it says the charging system is working AND a low batt. That would be a reason it stays on when other test lights go off.

Hope I can remember that one, and I might start paying more attention to those lights while things are working
The power from the ign sw thru the light actually starts the alternator charging. You could do the same after starting the engine by taking a piece of wire and shorting for an instant from the battery terminal on the alt to that one. Always better to use a test light for that, though. I dont believe a meter would do it.. not quite enough current.
 
  #18  
Old 09-28-2012 | 10:58 PM
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Hey mcdon are you still on this forum? I know this post is old but I'm having the same problem. So you're saying you just had to take the cluster off and reconnect something? I'd greatly appreciate your help
 
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