The cause of the issue that is on display in the images above is a failed A.I.R. system check valve. This may not be the actual source of the problem though which I'll explain further below.

The A.I.R. (Air Injection Reaction) system consists of a blower that forces fresh air into the exhaust system to aid in catalyst efficiency. Between the hardlines on the exhaust manifolds & the soft lines that run to the pump, there is a check valve that, when working properly, prevents exhaust gases from pushing back through the system. If one of them fails, it burns out the rubber elbow and if left unchecked, has the potential to damage wiring.

I would recommend replacing both check valves while you're in there. Once you have that done, I would also run an exhaust restriction test to ensure that you do not have any abnormal restriction in the catalytic converter as this can contribute to check valve failure.

 

 

This particular harness near the passenger side A.I.R. check valve has the wires to the injectors running through it. I know this because after engine work on mine I routed this harness too close to the exhaust manifold on my 2001 and the underside was melted to the point where one injector wire was grounding out intermittently - giving an OBD2 code for an injector circuit, and having an occasional dead misfire that would come and go - but I had difficulty figuring out what the actual problem was. Point is that maybe your harness is damaged enough to cause some injectors to not work (or maybe the noise is just startling you and it runs fine - I dont' know). But if the harness is damaged and causing it to run poorly, then separating and taping the wires and tying the harness back should fix that.

I had an A.I.R check valve fail (internally) last Spring (same vehicle) and I found the A.I.R pump was also inop. GM makes a kit (including pump) that relocates the pump inlet to the top level of the radiator - this in order to prevent getting the moisture in the pump that causes them to fail. I got tons of water out of my A.I.R. pump. So I'm not sure if the pump failed first and the inop AIR system allowed the check valve to corrode and fail - or if the check valve failed first, allowing hot gas to ruin the AIR pump. What I'm trying to point out is that unless you verify the AIR system is fully functional after repairs, you might see another failure in the near future (or at least it will not pass all of the emissions readiness tests).

The best deal I found was for the actual GM parts on ebay. AIR pump kit, 2 check valves, and two rubber elbows - each bought separatey. Bought the 2 gaskets for the check valve assemblies to exhaust manifolds at local Chevy dealer. Don't remember the exact cost for all, but it was somewhere over $100 and less than $200 - closer to $100 IIRC.

Be careful to not break the studs off that hold the valve assemblies to the manifolds when removing them (and yes you should remove them to replace the check valves). The nuts may take a lot of penetrant and/or heat to break loose - just like anything screwed into an exhaust manifold. Then be very careful when removing the check valves from the tubing - don't bend the tubing - the entire assemblies are quite expensive. I found that cutting a slot in the outer threaded area of the old check valve (flat for the wrench) with a dremel cutting wheel was the only way to get the old check valves off of the tubing without damage.

Good luck! Sorry, but I'm not sure how you are going to get it home without a tow truck or trailer - or work on it where you are. Maybe you can build a tin shield around the check valve, make sure nothing is touching it, and drive really easy? 160 miles would be a bit of a stretch.

Maybe U-Haul truck and trailer would be your best option? You could arrange for that and enjoy the rest of your camping trip.

Another option might be to break or cut the valve off the tubing that attaches it to the exhaust manifold and mash the end shut with vice grips or whatever it takes. Not much room to work when out on the road. Probably need to remove the upper radiator shroud for room to work. Of course doing this will require an entire new check valve assembly (in the end) for that side, but might get you home and is cheaper than a tow or the rental.

 

 

 

Sounds like you're a guy that cares. I'm sure you'll be fine. I would recommend that after repairs the A.I.R. system is verified to be working and passes the emissions readiness testing that almost all scanners can read results for (and is checked in states with emissions testing). This is one of the 5-6 or so named emission readiness tests the PCM does after codes are cleared with a scan tool. Might take a few weeks for your vehicle to successfully run the test and pass. On mine, it is the test that ALWAYS takes the longest to run and pass. If it hasn't passed in a month of driving, I would investigate why. Alternatively, you can turn on the pump with a capable scanner and listen (assume system is working if pump comes on) - my Android phone with Car Gauge Pro and BAFX Bluetooth OBD2 adapter will do this (yes it does a limited array of select bidirectional controls - only $35 or so for everything except the phone). Good luck and let us know how things turn out.

 

Yep, old thread but add me to the list of victims. Patients to identify, cut, and shrink tube soldered connections. Had to repair about 15 wires. Truck is still a little off power sometimes though. but it does have over 350000 miles.