The IPC has multiple power wires going in to it from multiple fuses. Is it just the illumination lamps in the IPC and all the gauges work? The illumination bulbs are powered externally from the illumination circuit which is: Hot at all times power>PRK LP fuse>the dimmer in the headlamp switch>Illum fuse> IPC>G203. There are 2 fuses to check. Are all of the illumination bulbs in the dash dead or only the IPC?

The IPC and the radio have no circuit elements in common with the starter circuit so we need to debug the starter by itself.

The only thing the radio shares with the IPC is ground G203 which is behind the right side of the dash.

Besides checking those two fuses above and possibly G203, lets get your starter working reliably and then we can move on.


George

 

Now all I'm getting is the service engine soon light (that's another problem I've been trying to fix. O2 sensors.) The oil pressure needle is moving and the voltage meter seems to be normal.

I'm not getting any readings on ILLUM or STR WHL ILLUM fuses. I was getting something from the 4WD fuse (if this is useful) but my car doesn't have 4WD, I don't think.
think.

Also not getting anything from PARK LP.

Also sorry for the late reply. Crashed on Red Bull.

 

When you say for instance that your not getting anything from the Park LP fuse, tell me how you are testing that. Which meter leads go where? What function is the meter in?

George

 

I felt that maybe I was doing something wrong so I went back and did some more tests.
This time with a test light but still nothing on the fuses I listed. I know the fuses are good.
Maybe a bad multimeter? I got it a couple of months ago. Maybe the multimeter's fuse is blown?

I was putting the meter leads in both, tried red on top and bottom and placing the black on a ground on the car. I'm used to small electronics.

 

Any time you are testing for voltage you always start out checking the meter with black lead on battery negative and red lead on battery positive and make sure the meter reads 12.x volts or that the test light lights up. When probing for voltage you put the red lead on the test point and the black lead on ground where the safest ground is the negative battery post. There are only a few specialized measurements like across fuses for parasitic drain measurements where the black lead goes anywhere but battery ground when measuring voltage..

George

 

When you say battery negative, you mean like any ground on the car like an unpainted surface, right?

 

You can use a raw metal part on the engine somewhere but if you can get to the negative battery terminal that’s even better so there is no chance of a marginal ground connection confusing the results. Testing the meter to make sure you get a good reading at the battery positive terminal is key before you start so you don’t have to worry about a bad meter, meter lead or meter fuses, etc.


George

 

I checked again and it's the same. 0.0 ~ 0.01 volts. I get 12.16~12.17 volts on when testing the battery.

 

OK then lets get to work.

I assume that we are still looking at the Park LP fuse and so we are working on the IPC illumination and not the starting problem, is that right? If so, you have no voltage on either side of the Park LP fuse? If I am wrong and its the starting problem, you have no voltage on either side of the crank fuse with the ignition in the momentary crank position?

Oh and your battery is undercharged. its at 50% charge. That also needs to be addressed.

George

 

I just noticed that your truck has 2 fuses labeled Park LP fuse . I am referring at this time to the one in the under hood fuse block (UHFB).


George