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Lighting & ElectricalPost your lighting and chassis/engine electrical questions here. Any audio/video questions should be posted in the 'Audio/Video Electronics' section.
ECM1 has 6V on it and right next to it in the UHFB is ENG1 with 12V. They are both fed by the same circuit and the wiring diagram implies that they are connected under the fuse block which is why I expected you to find corrosion in that location:
Since there was no damage under the UHFB then they must join further back so follow the wires under the UHFB from the two sets of socket pins back towards the power source until they join. Something is wrong between those two points.
ECM1 has 6V on it and right next to it in the UHFB is ENG1 with 12V. They are both fed by the same circuit and the wiring diagram implies that they are connected under the fuse block which is why I expected you to find corrosion in that location:
Since there was no damage under the UHFB then they must join further back so follow the wires under the UHFB from the two sets of socket pins back towards the power source until they join. Something is wrong between those two points.
George
what is the computer or box that’s in the passenger kick panel kind of like under the dash
I figured out that it’s the tcc module, if my bcm had gotten wet at al of the humidity from the water messed with it do you think it possibly be the cause of this?
I sure would have liked to get to the bottom of only having 6v on ecm1 because that might lead us to your problem. That said:
Since you have no voltage at either crank fuse socket with the ignition in the start position but you do have 12 at the Ign C fuse then you have a loss of power in the wiring from the Ign C fuse to the ignition switch, the ignition switch itself or the wiring from the ignition switch to the crank fuse (see attached). I would probe the orange wire at the ignition switch to make sure that crank power has come into the switch and then measure the voltage out on the yellow wire at the ignition switch while in the crank position.
I sure would have liked to get to the bottom of only having 6v on ecm1 because that might lead us to your problem. That said:
Since you have no voltage at either crank fuse socket with the ignition in the start position but you do have 12 at the Ign C fuse then you have a loss of power in the wiring from the Ign C fuse to the ignition switch, the ignition switch itself or the wiring from the ignition switch to the crank fuse (see attached). I would probe the orange wire at the ignition switch to make sure that crank power has come into the switch and then measure the voltage out on the yellow wire at the ignition switch while in the crank position.
George
I’ll check voltage on the whole ignition switch this Friday when I get back in town and send what I find
I sure would have liked to get to the bottom of only having 6v on ecm1 because that might lead us to your problem. That said:
Since you have no voltage at either crank fuse socket with the ignition in the start position but you do have 12 at the Ign C fuse then you have a loss of power in the wiring from the Ign C fuse to the ignition switch, the ignition switch itself or the wiring from the ignition switch to the crank fuse (see attached). I would probe the orange wire at the ignition switch to make sure that crank power has come into the switch and then measure the voltage out on the yellow wire at the ignition switch while in the crank position.
George
I finally figured it out, the starter relay and fuel pump relay share a ground it was burnt up somewhere along the wire still haven’t found where yet, but I made a jumper ground to the body from the relay pins and now cluster and everything is working and cranking again, now just have to figure out no spark
