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Lighting & ElectricalPost your lighting and chassis/engine electrical questions here. Any audio/video questions should be posted in the 'Audio/Video Electronics' section.
I have a 2004 Chevy Blazer 2WD that keeps blowing this 3A under hood fuse. My driver side lock/unlock doesn't work nor do the side mirror controls. The goal is to get the rear hatch to unlock again. So basically I can lock or unlock and even arm the security alarm with the keyfob. But the rear hatch does not work at all. When I double press the rear button on the keyfob I do hear the "click" from the remote controller behind the OBD port. If I replace the 3A fuse with 5,10,15A, etc everything works ONCE. I can do one "action" with a fresh fuse and then it blows. The rear works on the keyfob, all the power side door controls work for any door, etc. Does anybody have a schematic for this circuit or something else I can do to trouble shoot this. I even replace all the driver side door controls and the rear hatch/wiper controls from a junk yard. Same thing, just all the windows can be controlled from driver door and lock and unlock from the keyfob, but not the rear.
First you need to find out why the fuse is being blown. You will have to disconnect the loads one at a time until the fuse stays intact. If you get all of the loads unplugged and no joy then you will need to find the short in the wiring. Then after that is fixed we can correct any remaining problems. The loads on that fuse:
Liftgate lock cylinder switch
Front pass dr lk window sw
outside mirror switch
Drivers door lk/window sw
Liftgate glass relay
Thanks for the reply I will try to start working on this. It is a little confusing as to what happened to cause it to start blowing fuses. But with this diagram I should be able to tackle it a little at a time.
These are just the power feeds through the fuse your blowing. Once you get that straightened out then there are other diagrams for the complete circuits for the functions you may still need to fix.
I had an issue with my power locks not working and assuming it was the lock solenoid itself that was bad. Well, I spent days trying to figure out what was going on after I replaced the lock mechanism and there was no change.
In short, I had a broken wire in the bundle of wires that goes from the body to the door. The previous owner, or someone they hired, had cut through the protective wrap to get at a wire for a remote starter (or some other aftermarket accessory) and in the process can nicked the wire insulation for the wire that goes to the lock. This eventually broke.
I suggest that you go to the door jam and pull back the rubber cover and see if anyone has messed with the wires in the door jam to get access to them. You might find a wire that could be shorting out to the body.