Question on cranking engine over
#11
04-12-2013, 03:41 PM
you have to have a dome light, like i stated earlier. if you dont have a dome light then you dont have power to the ignition which in the end means that the ignition cant send the signal to the starter. make sure that you have all the body harnesses hooked up. there should be two of them under the dash, one on the passenger side and one on the driver side. the driver side on i know that you should be able to see from the engine bay on the firewall. there is a 10mm bolt in the middle of them. make sure that is tight. that is how they are connected. if you unscrewed the 10mm when you pulled the motor then you wont have power INSIDE the car. you need to get it to the point where you have the dome light working and also make sure that you have brake lights and dash lights. when you turn the key, all the dummy lights should come on. if they dont, then you wont be able to crank the engine.
#12
04-12-2013, 04:18 PM
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Port huron,Mi
Posts: 1,279
Ok Thanks for your reply sir when i get a chance to check things over again I`ll take a looka t what you mentioned.
#15
04-14-2013, 09:58 PM
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Port huron,Mi
Posts: 1,279
Ok got a chance to try and figure out this wiring problem this afternoon.Twip I did find the ground strap from the wiring harness and its connected to the firewall peoperly.My ground wire I switched to different location and got some spark out of it so I know that I have juice coming from the battery.I didnt have a chance to check starter wires as I dont have a safe way to jack it it up high enough for me to crawl underneith.I`ll be working on that tomorrow.I also checked the domelight to make sure it works.Right now Im stumped and can barely make heads or tails out of my wiring harness.
#16
04-19-2013, 05:47 PM
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Port huron,Mi
Posts: 1,279
Ok got my truck jacked up safely and was able to get underneith and look around.Everything was wet from condensation.I checked the starter wires they are tight.All my ground wires are grounded still nothing.What am I missing?
#17
04-19-2013, 10:24 PM
sorry to sound redundant but if you dont have power INSIDE the car you will never get it started or be able to roll the starter. you have to get to the point that you can listen to the radio and have a dome light and all that kind of stuff. you should be able to turn the wipers on and all that. otherwise your ignition wont do anything.
#18
04-20-2013, 11:40 AM
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Port huron,Mi
Posts: 1,279
Ok I think I might have figured it out.I wish I could post pics camera is dead.On my wiring harness there 2 red wires that should be connected to the positive on the battery.Thats how its connected on my truck anyways.Probalem is I cant get them to reach.I have to see if I can get these wires to move forward so I can hook them up.I`ll post an update when i get a chance.
#19
04-20-2013, 01:49 PM
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Port huron,Mi
Posts: 1,279
Ok so these 2 redwires that are combined into1 terminal with 12 volts hooked to them and also having a ground will turn my lights and all my dash board stuff on.The starter will not crank so either my nuetral safety switch isnt hooked up good or its bad.I did have to replace it cause my other one broke during the engine and transmission swap.These 2 wires go to the altenator so the circuit from the battery to the altenator and starter all have to be hooked up for the engine to crankover..
Last edited by 1sttimejimmyowner; 04-20-2013 at 05:37 PM.
#20
04-20-2013, 05:53 PM
There should be 3 wires at the battery positive terminal:
One wire goes to a 14ga grey fusible link, then changes to red and goes to the EBCM.
The second wire goes to a 12ga blue fusible link, then changes to red and connects to the stud on the back of the alternator.
The third wire is a 2ga wire, (originally it was black) and goes directly to the starter solenoid. This is the largest wire on the battery positive terminal.
On the stud on the back of the alternator there should be 3 wires:
The first one is the 12ga blue fusible link, (changes to red) from the battery positive terminal, (described above).
The second wire as a 16ga black fusible link that changes to red and goes to the starter relay.
The third wire is a 12ga blue fusible link that changes to red, and goes to the junction block near the left hood hinge. This wire feeds the junction block.
The junction block supplies battery voltage to everything else on the vehicle. There should be 5 16ga black fusible links. They all change to red, and connect to the studs on the junction block:
2 of them feed the ignition switch.
2 of them feed the instrument panel fuse box.
1 goes to the blower motor relay.
Hope this helps
One wire goes to a 14ga grey fusible link, then changes to red and goes to the EBCM.
The second wire goes to a 12ga blue fusible link, then changes to red and connects to the stud on the back of the alternator.
The third wire is a 2ga wire, (originally it was black) and goes directly to the starter solenoid. This is the largest wire on the battery positive terminal.
On the stud on the back of the alternator there should be 3 wires:
The first one is the 12ga blue fusible link, (changes to red) from the battery positive terminal, (described above).
The second wire as a 16ga black fusible link that changes to red and goes to the starter relay.
The third wire is a 12ga blue fusible link that changes to red, and goes to the junction block near the left hood hinge. This wire feeds the junction block.
The junction block supplies battery voltage to everything else on the vehicle. There should be 5 16ga black fusible links. They all change to red, and connect to the studs on the junction block:
2 of them feed the ignition switch.
2 of them feed the instrument panel fuse box.
1 goes to the blower motor relay.
Hope this helps