Roof lights
#1
Roof lights
I'm contemplating on fitting a set of quad spot lights onto my roof, but I can't work out how everyone has got the wiring into the cab.
Have you all drilled holes in the roof and if so how did you get the wiring through both skins.
My 1999 Blazer has a factory fitted sunroof.
Any advice would be very helpful.
Have you all drilled holes in the roof and if so how did you get the wiring through both skins.
My 1999 Blazer has a factory fitted sunroof.
Any advice would be very helpful.
#3
Many thanks for that, but I don't have any door pillar outer trims.
Can you please post a photo of your one so I can see what they look like.
#4
I have a slightly odd setup, its not the right way of doing it but it works for me. Ill start by saying i have a 2 door blazer and I often haul a canoe or other large gear and didnt want a permanent light setup to interfere so I tried out a "quick" disconnect option.
I ended up using 8ga wiring all around regardless of the watts/ amps being pulled. I have 2-100 watt spot lights and 2-55 watt driving lights setup on a spare roof rack bar. Ran the wires through the rack bar to keep a clean look and used caulk to ensure a water tight seal. The wires extend by a few feet and go into my vehicle using the rear window that latches inside. It then follows the contour of the window and into the storage box thing that is by a persons feet as they sit. Its hard to explain but most of you should know what im talking about. The wires then stop there.
As mentioned, I wanted a quick disconnect option. Its at the point of that storage box thing that I have a 4 prong trailer harness in use. I put the two spot lights on their own wires in while having the two 55 watters using 1 wire in. The last wire was used as a ground wire which was ran to the front pass seat bolt.
The power wires are thens ran under the door step plate, under the carpet and then through the rubber grommet on the firewall. Its then ran as it should be with relays, fuses and the battery. I then ran a few other wires to switches that I put under the headlight **** and interior dimmer cluster. 1 switch controls the spots while the other the driving lights.
As for whether its considered a "quick" disconnection option, it takes about 20 minutes for it to be dismantled. But considering its not permanent ill take it.
I ended up using 8ga wiring all around regardless of the watts/ amps being pulled. I have 2-100 watt spot lights and 2-55 watt driving lights setup on a spare roof rack bar. Ran the wires through the rack bar to keep a clean look and used caulk to ensure a water tight seal. The wires extend by a few feet and go into my vehicle using the rear window that latches inside. It then follows the contour of the window and into the storage box thing that is by a persons feet as they sit. Its hard to explain but most of you should know what im talking about. The wires then stop there.
As mentioned, I wanted a quick disconnect option. Its at the point of that storage box thing that I have a 4 prong trailer harness in use. I put the two spot lights on their own wires in while having the two 55 watters using 1 wire in. The last wire was used as a ground wire which was ran to the front pass seat bolt.
The power wires are thens ran under the door step plate, under the carpet and then through the rubber grommet on the firewall. Its then ran as it should be with relays, fuses and the battery. I then ran a few other wires to switches that I put under the headlight **** and interior dimmer cluster. 1 switch controls the spots while the other the driving lights.
As for whether its considered a "quick" disconnection option, it takes about 20 minutes for it to be dismantled. But considering its not permanent ill take it.
#5
I have my relays under the hood with a small wire ran into the cab for my switches. From the relay the power wire is ran inside the cab under the carpet and up the center pillar between the doors. I pulled the roof rack off and drilled a hole under the foot for the wire to pass through trimmed the inside of the foot a bit and used the screw as my ground as well. I cut the wires to equal length and added a two wire trailer plug. From there I made up a wire harness with the other side of the plug going to the lights. You don't see any wires at all when mounted and everything is out of the way. As for quick disconnect well I would say it takes about 1 second to remove! I ripped the entire rack off my truck on a tree limb a while back and the wires just disconnected as it came off with zero damage to any wire I have pics and more detail in my build thread if you want to check it out.
Edit: The switch mount I made starts on page 24 and the wiring finishes up around page 29
Edit: The switch mount I made starts on page 24 and the wiring finishes up around page 29
Last edited by rexmburns; 10-23-2013 at 01:25 PM.
#6
Thank you gents for your concise replies and they have both given me lots of idea concerning the quick release connection for removal even if I do think the one second tree branch way of doing it is abit to fast for me. lol
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