Okay, so immediately after I got my blazer running, and you always said it should really high volts somewhere around 17. So I immediately shut the truck off and check the battery voltage and it was at 12.6, then I started it up and it was at 14.3 in bounced around a little bit from 14 volts to 14.7 and usually stayed in the 14 volt range but I couldn't find any explanation online. Any ideas?

 

Voltage regulator inside the alternator???
Had a similar experience except I didnt realize it was happening until my battery exploded while i was driving. Anyways, it's a cheap part to replace and easy to put in.

 

Shouldn't the regulator be good considering the actual voltage is as it should be?

 

So, just to clarify, the voltage is reading high on the gauge, but when you use a voltimeter to test it, it the voltimeter reads normal?

Sounds like a gauge issue to me if that's the case

 

Yep, I check the voltage and it shows 14.4 most of the time, but the voltage gauge says somewhere around 16 or 17

 

I know in newer chevy trucks the gauges have replaceable stepper motors that control them, and a bad stepper motor for a voltage gauge would cause your symptom...But I don't know when they started using them, or if it's possible to get a new one for your gauge cluster. If it's possible it would be a cheap alternative to replacing the whole gauge cluster.

 

I was thinking the same thing. Thanks for the help

 

Nope, strobing lights are a defect of the design. Voltage gauge dipping is also an issue. Mine is a 99 and it drove me nuts. Cleaned all the grounds blaa blaa blaa, the courtesy lights did it, gauge lights, head light.... Searched and searched. When the DRL went off it seemed to steady out. The higher the load, the warmer the truck temp, the worse it was. I replaced the head light switch..... Nope.The alternator connector is a CS130D. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALTERNATOR-...72.m2749.l2649. There's only 1 wire. Red. IN the second slot. Buy the new connector with the 4 wires having a pigtail. The existing wire stays where it's at, splice it. The call it position B. You need to add a wire/splice to the fourth, or D, and run it to the red from the battery to the back of the alternator. Ignore the internal voltage gauge. It's better but the design sucked, it wasn't designed to monitor the alternator under load. Some call the 4th wire or D, the sense wire. There's a 2006 service bulletin I FINALLY found explaining it. And it pertains to a lot of different vehicles.