Hi Everyone. I believe I should mention this incident because this is a real fire hazard.

Last April, I bought and installed a 55w x 2 Fog light kit from Walmart. They sell similar kits at Advance and Autozone under the same brand. This kit came with wiring, an inline fuse, hardware and a lighted rocker switch to install the kit. I did have to use thicker gauge wiring and connectors to extend the wiring because the battery is on the opposite side from the A-Pillar (where I mounted the switch). Other than the wiring extension, there were no other modifications to the system. The 15A fuse for the lights is near the battery and I did not tamper with it.

Over time, I did notice that the switch was getting "softer" like the internal spring was wearing out. I also noticed recently that the center power wire from the battery was getting a bit warm and the connector was starting to discolor. A couple weeks ago, I was on the highway and I smelled something burning. I didn't smell anything in the vents or notice any warning lights or smoke, so I suspected that it was not anything under the hood. The car was still driving normally at 65mph, so I knew that it was not a part of the powertrain. I determined that the odor was coming from the switch itself. I put my finger near the wiring and got an instant near-1st degree burn and discovered that the middle connector and the plastic insulator were BLACK. I turned the lights off immediately and after a few minutes it cooled down. Then I disconnected the connection at the battery as soon as I exited the highway (not about to stop at the side of a major highway at night unless there was a real fire. Then I would grab the fire extinguisher and cover the entire switch in foam if it meant preventing a total loss.). After getting home, I cut the wiring off at the switch since the center (power) connector was melted to the switch terminals and wasn't about to come off without a fight. I discovered that the terminal was broken internally and pulled away from the contacts inside the switch, which increased the resistance (explains the heat) and also explains why the switch seemed to get softer over time when I pressed it to activate the lights through normal use. The terminal pulled out completely from the switch with no force after cutting the wire off. I pressed the terminal back in and the switch felt firm (like new) when I pressed it. The power wire was the ONLY connector that was like this. The output and ground terminals for the switch were 90% clean with no sign of those terminals overheating (the very top of the bottom connector which was close to the power connector was also a bit brown. The rest of it was clean. That was likely from the burning power connector.).


I replaced this switch with a Radioshack automotive 12v/25A rocker switch with an LED and it works perfectly. I also replaced all 3 quick connectors as a precaution. The connectors are cool to the touch even on long trips. Problem solved. I am just glad I caught this before the switch caused a fire.

I also have an LED blue accent light set from the same company with an identical switch and it is not working unless I press the switch in a special way. This set had burned out LEDs (right out of the packaging!), so I installed it in the interior as an addition to my LED light system since I believed that the burned out LEDs are an eyesore (and the blue on the front of the car might be illegal). I JUST installed it last night and I had the kit for a while because I didn't have time to install it. I disconnected that switch also because I don't want another fire hazard in my truck. I know the switch is the problem because I crossed the two wires (power and output) and the lights worked just fine. I am going to get the same Radioshack switch for this application.

Now, if ANY if you have Aux or Fog light kits from a parts store or Walmart that came with a switch and wiring as part of a complete kit, I HIGHLY recommend replacing the switch with a higher quality switch (or at the very least inspecting the existing switch for the symptoms I mentioned) rated for 12v and at least 20A (or MUCH higher than what the inline fuse is rated for). If the connectors show any signs of damage or overheating, I strongly recommend cutting off and replacing those also. These switches are clearly defective or simply low quality and are a safety threat because they could cause a fire if undetected in time.

 

This is why I like using relays.

 

I had a 2000 Dodge Neon I installed fog lights in using one of those 55w kits (also from Walmart). I smelled something burning over the course of a few days. I didn't stop to think it was the new install and was concerned it was something under the hood. One night the lights didn't come on. I checked it the following morning and found the switch had melted to the point it wouldn't rock, the hot wire on the back side was burned where it attached to the switch, and the inline fuse had eventually blown from the overload.

 

Oh crap. So I really am not the only one to have a problem with one of these kits.

Well at least the fuse on your car finally blew from that. Better than an actual fire. I wonder if there is a recall on kits like these?

 

I doubt it. These company's throw the cheapest parts together. I agree with s14h3r.. relays ftw

 

I agree with relays also. That is the next item on my list for the lights. I don't want this to happen again.

 

i understand you not wanting to post the exact brand and such but could you pm me the brand? i'm looking at buying a cheap set to see how i like the look of it and then possibly upgrading to some KCs. sorry to hear about the near fire/burn but good thing you're a smart person and did the mental check