Best way to build engine stand and a opinion?
#11
BF Veteran
Join Date: May 2011
Location: SW Central OH
Posts: 2,253


There was way more changes than you think in gm ecms from 86-94. Right off the top of my head I can think of 4 in s-series alone. Wanna say 3 in fullsize trucks. Some only require a prom swap and others a rewire of the ecm and prom swap to work.
Steel sounds nice but don't forget to factor in the cost of cutting (blades), drilling (bits), welding (rods/wire), and all the electricity that takes. A hand full of nails is way cheaper since you won't eat up near as many blades.
Steel sounds nice but don't forget to factor in the cost of cutting (blades), drilling (bits), welding (rods/wire), and all the electricity that takes. A hand full of nails is way cheaper since you won't eat up near as many blades.
Note that a camshaft is a 2:1 reducer attached to the crank. Another way would be a timing belt system off a Ford 2.3L with an extender that is bolted onto the crank pulley, a stout frame and the Cam pulley on the dist shaft
The specific distributor might be a early SBC type with an MSD pickup and appropriate circuitry.
Chris, this aint facebook. It's an ambitious project. If I reply a way you dont understand instead of ignoring it, ask me to specifically explain
You want no computer interface whatsoever for reasons implied above. The prospective buyer is not buying the sensors and injectors, he's buying the long block.
- you dont do anything with the factory fuel/spark timing component for the specific engine. Because you will spend more time fiddling with getting the setup right than you will mounting and checking out the engine.
Last edited by pettyfog; 02-10-2012 at 06:06 AM.
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