An Eye Opener About Oil Filters!
#21
02-03-2010, 08:27 PM
any news on the bosch oil filters? i just started using them on my 97 blazer and my g/f audi a6..any reviews on them?
#22
02-03-2010, 09:42 PM
Here's what I was able to dig up:
From: http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html
The Bosch sounds good to me. Mid-priced at $5.49 for the Toyota Corolla but has metal end caps like the premiums.
Regards,
Thomas
From: http://www.corolland.com/oil-filters.html
Base-plate: 8 hole openings. Thickness of the plate approx. 0.10". The gasket is held in by a continuous circular lip. The gasket that contacts the engine block has a rounded surface. Stamped: “AA".
Case: Thickness approx. 0.014". There is a stamped spring in the bottom of the case.
Anti-drainback valve: Black rubber. Thickness of 0.063" with the outer lip having a ridge that is 0.94". Total width of 2.1". Hole in center of 0.85". Stamped: “AAX" and “234".
The by-pass valve is at the back-end of the filter, the opposite side from the base-plate. It is a nice design, with a frame holding a coil spring, which pushes the valve sealing surface against a rubber gasket and exactly like the AC-Delco and STP filters.
Filter element: Paper - thickness 0.025". 46 pleats of width 0.40". Filter element height of approx. 2.0". Approximately 73.6 sq. in. of filtering surface area. Metal support structure in the center of the filter to prevent collapse. Metal end-caps glued to each end of the filter element. The paper filter element seam is glued together. [“Gabe” wrote in 2010 that Bosch used synthetic media.]
General observations: Pleats were not evenly spaced, some had wide gaps between them, others were somewhat crowded and this seems to be consistently seen in the Champion made filter, which I believe this filter is, but the pleat spacing wasn't quite as bad as it seemed to be in the AC-Delco and the STP filters. The glue at metal end-caps was a little sloppy. I do like this by-pass valve design, which is just like the AC-Delco and STP filters and in my opinion it's a good one. I really like the seal that mates to the engine block being rounded too, which the AC-Delco, STP and this filter have. This filter is made in the USA and meets the HS-806 standard (so it says on the box). Unless the paper filtering element on this filter is different from the AC-Delco and STP, other than the filtering surface-size dimension this filter looks the same as the AC-Delco and the STP.
Case: Thickness approx. 0.014". There is a stamped spring in the bottom of the case.
Anti-drainback valve: Black rubber. Thickness of 0.063" with the outer lip having a ridge that is 0.94". Total width of 2.1". Hole in center of 0.85". Stamped: “AAX" and “234".
The by-pass valve is at the back-end of the filter, the opposite side from the base-plate. It is a nice design, with a frame holding a coil spring, which pushes the valve sealing surface against a rubber gasket and exactly like the AC-Delco and STP filters.
Filter element: Paper - thickness 0.025". 46 pleats of width 0.40". Filter element height of approx. 2.0". Approximately 73.6 sq. in. of filtering surface area. Metal support structure in the center of the filter to prevent collapse. Metal end-caps glued to each end of the filter element. The paper filter element seam is glued together. [“Gabe” wrote in 2010 that Bosch used synthetic media.]
General observations: Pleats were not evenly spaced, some had wide gaps between them, others were somewhat crowded and this seems to be consistently seen in the Champion made filter, which I believe this filter is, but the pleat spacing wasn't quite as bad as it seemed to be in the AC-Delco and the STP filters. The glue at metal end-caps was a little sloppy. I do like this by-pass valve design, which is just like the AC-Delco and STP filters and in my opinion it's a good one. I really like the seal that mates to the engine block being rounded too, which the AC-Delco, STP and this filter have. This filter is made in the USA and meets the HS-806 standard (so it says on the box). Unless the paper filtering element on this filter is different from the AC-Delco and STP, other than the filtering surface-size dimension this filter looks the same as the AC-Delco and the STP.
Regards,
Thomas
#23
02-04-2010, 01:12 AM
i just stick to the K&N HP-2001 and no probs and it has the handy 1" wrench off
and if u have a orileys neer u they have 5 quarts of Royal purple and a K&N GOLD filter for 39.00 cant beat that!
and if u have a orileys neer u they have 5 quarts of Royal purple and a K&N GOLD filter for 39.00 cant beat that!
#26
02-04-2010, 03:43 PM
One of the guys on another board I am on worked in a lab that tested oil and filters (not sure what his actual job was, but for a small fee you could send him a sample of your oil to see how often you personally should change it).
His posting and results for filters was K&N and Wix were his top all around filters. Although K&N filters tend to raise oil pressure which is good in some regards, but not in all applications. The Pure Ones came in a close third. I tend to use one of the three based on whats in stock locally.
I can't remember his actual test scenario's and exact results (it's been several years since following it), but I think the Fram standard filters were the ones he disliked the most.
His posting and results for filters was K&N and Wix were his top all around filters. Although K&N filters tend to raise oil pressure which is good in some regards, but not in all applications. The Pure Ones came in a close third. I tend to use one of the three based on whats in stock locally.
I can't remember his actual test scenario's and exact results (it's been several years since following it), but I think the Fram standard filters were the ones he disliked the most.
#27
02-04-2010, 04:38 PM
I am an AMSOIL user. I change the filter (NAPA gold) every 3 months faithfully, and the oil every year regardless of milage on the vehicles. We save alot of money changing oil this way, and even at the years end the oil is still a golder color and aces an analysis test. I started doing this years ago when i worked at a garage that was an amsoil dealer. They used to have many customers that were on this same oil change plan, and oil analysis was done for the non beleivers free of charge if they got on the plan. I had analysis done on my own oil after a year and it was still in great condition. I know alot of poeple will be shocked and in disbeleif, but this is what we do and will continue to do in my house. My toyota has 850,000 KM on it now, and doesnt leak or make a noise at all. The only oil leaks I have had is the power steering pressure hose.
Price of regular oil change $10 filter, $7/litre x5 litres = 45 x 4changes a year = $180 per vehicle.
Price of synthetic Amsoil change $10 filter x 4 = $40... 6 litres amsoil = $60... 100 per year. We change the filter, and top up oil.
We have 4 cars, so thats a savings of 320 per year to use oil that is cleaner after one year than any conventional oils are after 3 months. Amsoil is also sold at most parts places here in Canada, and if you cant find it, you can call their rep and their truck will deliver the boxes to your house if you pay by CC over the phone. Most large cities have an office in town you can purchase AMSOIL at. Even my chainsaw and lawnmower have specific AMSOIL oils in them. They sell oil for every application. I also discard much less oil so this an eco-friendly approach on my part. I also beleive I could get 2 years out of this oil on 3 of my cars, the toyota does the most milage by far, my S15 hardly gets used at all so the oil filter changes are not every 3 months, maybe once a year... To save even more money I buy the 12 pack cases of oil filters since my cars all take different filters.
All my driveline oils are AMSOIL in all my cars.
Im a beleiver and will be forever. Using a superior product pays for my familys camping trips each summer...
Price of regular oil change $10 filter, $7/litre x5 litres = 45 x 4changes a year = $180 per vehicle.
Price of synthetic Amsoil change $10 filter x 4 = $40... 6 litres amsoil = $60... 100 per year. We change the filter, and top up oil.
We have 4 cars, so thats a savings of 320 per year to use oil that is cleaner after one year than any conventional oils are after 3 months. Amsoil is also sold at most parts places here in Canada, and if you cant find it, you can call their rep and their truck will deliver the boxes to your house if you pay by CC over the phone. Most large cities have an office in town you can purchase AMSOIL at. Even my chainsaw and lawnmower have specific AMSOIL oils in them. They sell oil for every application. I also discard much less oil so this an eco-friendly approach on my part. I also beleive I could get 2 years out of this oil on 3 of my cars, the toyota does the most milage by far, my S15 hardly gets used at all so the oil filter changes are not every 3 months, maybe once a year... To save even more money I buy the 12 pack cases of oil filters since my cars all take different filters.
All my driveline oils are AMSOIL in all my cars.
Im a beleiver and will be forever. Using a superior product pays for my familys camping trips each summer...
Last edited by ohsofly; 02-04-2010 at 04:54 PM.
#28
02-04-2010, 07:37 PM
i just put a fresh 4 1/2 quarts of rp 5w-30 and a k&n hp-2001 on
love the stuff i change it out ever 7,500 miles and the stuff is still golden!
that is by far my fav oil/filter combo for any car or truck. i even use it in my mowers!
love the stuff i change it out ever 7,500 miles and the stuff is still golden!
that is by far my fav oil/filter combo for any car or truck. i even use it in my mowers!
#29
02-04-2010, 10:13 PM
ok, so much talk about syn's now.
Rebel & ohsofly, you guys seem sold on them...........ever have any issues with the aparent "leakage" issue that people say happens with them? (something about being thinner and more uniform in structure)
i know it's really risky running any synthetic in the 6.2's (i don't know of anyone that hasn't had one of them seep with synthetic), but how about you 4.3's? i chnge my oil every month, and have only used Castrol oil. (yeah i drive alot, plus i like to keep it clean)
what about Mobil1? (hard to get RP unless you hit the Speed Shop's) it is the original synthetic.
Rebel & ohsofly, you guys seem sold on them...........ever have any issues with the aparent "leakage" issue that people say happens with them? (something about being thinner and more uniform in structure)
i know it's really risky running any synthetic in the 6.2's (i don't know of anyone that hasn't had one of them seep with synthetic), but how about you 4.3's? i chnge my oil every month, and have only used Castrol oil. (yeah i drive alot, plus i like to keep it clean)
what about Mobil1? (hard to get RP unless you hit the Speed Shop's) it is the original synthetic.
#30
02-04-2010, 11:45 PM
mobil 1 is great u can get a 5quart jug at walmart for 22 bucks. i have been a avid Royal Purple user going on 10 years. u can get it at any orileys or advance auto parts or autozone and even some walmarts.
i have done test and synthics protect 5x better than regular. no leaks now for ur first 2-3 oil changes at 5,000 ur oil will b black just like regular thats all the crud its cleaning out. i recomend doing a seafoam treatment right before ur first and second synth oil changes. just to make sure all crud is loose and gone. by the 3 and 4 change u can go up to 10,000 before u need to change i just change every 7,500 and it still looks golden. just use mobil 1 or castrol edge and remember "think with ur dip stick jimmy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj5ms9PJDNY
here are a few links to tell about synthitic oil
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuZT8aMlARY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWvQMOMkM-k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-7Acoo2Wb8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dEzY_nBD4g
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUEecVb8uo8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKtxqf5OFTU
i have done test and synthics protect 5x better than regular. no leaks now for ur first 2-3 oil changes at 5,000 ur oil will b black just like regular thats all the crud its cleaning out. i recomend doing a seafoam treatment right before ur first and second synth oil changes. just to make sure all crud is loose and gone. by the 3 and 4 change u can go up to 10,000 before u need to change i just change every 7,500 and it still looks golden. just use mobil 1 or castrol edge and remember "think with ur dip stick jimmy" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mj5ms9PJDNY
here are a few links to tell about synthitic oil
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqvhRi7-iMA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xuZT8aMlARY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWvQMOMkM-k
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W-7Acoo2Wb8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_dEzY_nBD4g
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUEecVb8uo8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKtxqf5OFTU
Last edited by RebelJimmy96; 02-05-2010 at 12:00 AM.