I work as a Chevy salesman in Wisconsin. Recently I took in a 2002 Blazer 4 door 4x4 with 148k as a trade-in and made it my own. The previous owner didn't really take good care of it, so I'm fixing things one at a time. I'm not a mechanic, but I've been doing most of the repairs myself with some help from forums like this one and a few good YouTubers. So far, I've replaced the pitman/idler arms, brakes/rotors, inner/outer tie rods & sleeves, radiator/trans cooler and hoses, oil cooler lines, and the distributor cap and rotor. At this point, it's more of a hobby than a chore, as I knew I had my work cut out for me, and I don't mind turning a wrench. But I know things will come up that are over my head, so I'm hoping this forum will help with those times!

Over the next few weeks I plan on replacing the fuel filter, repairing the rear defrost, and installing new hinge pins for the front doors.

Any help, questions or comments is always appreciated!

 

Welcome to the forum! Sounds like you have a good start on getting your rig ready to go.

The only other item I'd suggest you consider for repair is the lower intake manifold (LIM) gaskets. They can fail catastrophically. Regular readers of the forum will know how this topic is a bit of beating a dead-horse issue for me. Considering that you can lose an engine in a matter of minutes if the worst happens, I think it is reasonable to suggest this repair.

 

What labor and parts does that entail, and can I do that myself? I'm pretty handy but I'm not ASE certified or anything

 

The LIM gasket is more annoying than anything else as you have to remove so much stuff out of the way to get at it.

This link has basically the full step-by-step procedure for doing the replacement. I forgot to read the directions as closely has I should have with regard to getting all of the attachment nuts and bolts loose on the AC bracket. Boy did I waste time trying to puzzle that out.

The only special tool you would need is an in-lb torque wrench.

While I was at it, I replaced the spark plugs, wires, and cap and rotor. I also installed an upgraded fuel injection spider. People will sometimes get in trouble with getting the distributor back in but you just have to be slow and careful.

How To Replace Intake Manifold Gaskets On A GMC Jimmy 4.3 Liter V6 To Fix A Coolant Leak - GM Truck Engine Repairs

 

Wow that does look like a beast! I do have all of the tools listed, but this looks like a good week-long project. I already plan on replacing the distributor, spark plugs, and the spider/injectors, so I may as well just do it all. I may have to use a buddy's garage as I'm guessing this isn't something one would accomplish outside. It's hard to believe GM pushed DexCool for so long after it was clearly causing issues. I know this has affected my Blazer, too, because I had the classic sludge/corrosion buildup in my radiator and ended up replacing that and the hoses. Wouldn't surprise me if the previous owner mixed DexCool and normal coolant in there.

Considering I got my Blazer for about 800 bucks, sticking another 500 bucks into it is no big deal for me. I sell cars to people every day who have 500/mo or higher car payments so paying that much once or twice seems to make a lot more sense in my eyes!

 

It's a chore, but don't let it intimidate you. Take your time, watch a few videos, use quality parts every step of the way and it should work out perfectly for you. Perhaps the most important part is marking the distributor well so that there's little room for error when reinstalling. And yes, it does take a couple of days if you're being careful. But I did mine and replaced the injectors while I was in there. Made a huge difference in performance. If possible, video the process as you go in case you have to come away from it before you complete the job. It will help you remember where you left off.

 

Once I had realized I wanted to keep my Blazer for another 4-5 years, it was an easy decision to commit to the project. I think I took 4-5 days to do it all. If I had to do it again, it would only take maybe 2-3.

An enclosed space is definitely nice as there will be a pile of parts you took off to get at the LIM gaskets and you will have lots of tools about. It is nice to know they are all locked up safe for the night.

As for the distributor, I took several pictures and also marked the position of the rotor. Disconnecting the battery ensures that you do not accidentally crank the engine with the distributor out.

Three tips/issues I wish I had known before digging in are the following:

1. Read those directions carefully about loosening the nuts and bolts for the AC/PS bracket. The directions I posted are good but I did not read that part as closely as I should have. (This I already mentioned.)
2. If the distributor doesn't go in on the first try, the likely culprit is that the oil pump driveshaft got rotated by just a little bit. I big a** flat-bade screw driver can reach in and engage with the top of that shaft and rotate it back so that it will engage with the distributor. BTW, with only 13 teeth on the distributor gear, it is obvious if you are off or not; i.e. multiples of about 30 degrees.
3. Use the old LIM bolts with their heads cut off so that they can be used as guide pins for when you lower the LIM down onto the heads. This ensures you drop it down squarely. This is an old trick with Ford small-blocks (289s etc.) that I had wished I had remembered to try.

It almost goes without saying that it is imperative to keep all unwanted bits of junk (e.g. intake manifold gasket) from falling into the lifter valley or into any of the passages in the cylinder heads. A good supply of clean shop rags takes care of this.

Finally, if you do this or have someone do it for you, get the upgraded Felpro LIM gaskets with the metal carrier. Then you will never have to worry about it again.

 

Any suggestions on what to get for new bolts? I know that can make a significant difference, is there a brand that is best to choose?

 

You can get them when you order your gasket set. Here are the Fel-Pro part numbers:
Gasket set: MS 98002 T
LIM bolts: ES 72224

Be sure to double check these part numbers.

 

Thanks. As I'm ordering the new spider, I also noticed 2002 is the year they had both SCPI and MFI. If my VIN is 1GNDT13W22K212637, am I to assume that I have the "W" engine, meaning this one still has SCPI?