You shouldn't plug a return line in a return type system. At the least it should be just a higher pressure regulator. It should also be a hi-po pump...

 

That's what I thought, lol.

It was a Powerdyne kit the guy installed...

"Well it comes with, what is basically a fuel pressure regulater. It mounts down by the fuel filter. It goes inline with the return line so basically when it sees boost. It blocks off the return line which ups your fuel pressure or maxes out your fuel pump. Our pumps are capible of 90 psi. I put my fuel pressure gauge on it and drove it. The fuel pressure went to 85 PSI at 7 PSI boost."

Is what he had to say...

I just couldn't see that being good for the pump in any way...

 

That's a FMU.... That's what I've been ranting about. It's a total Pile of $hit. It's a terrible way to fuel a boosted engine. The only correct way to fuel it is with a custom program where you can change the actual Injector duty cycle and ignition timing along with MANY other perameters that need to be changed for a engine that is seeing boost. 99% of making good power and reliabilty along with retaining Fuel Milage and drivability is the tune. I've seen guys throw thousands of dollars on good parts and have a crap tune and hurt their car or not even come close to making the power they thought they were going to. It's hard to spend money on somthing that's not "tangable" or you can't see... A tune is just that... You can't "see" it or feel it and alot of people miss that inportant step.
And don't go to a Dyno to tune stuff. That's a total joke. I've never been to a dyno with any of my stuff and don't see a point. There's alot of other factors on a vehicle than just the rear tire rolling resistace. Wind drag, "real road drag" resistance of the rest of the car rolling... fuel slosh in the tank for take off. Among alot of other things that a Dyno can't properly simulate.
Going to a dyno to tune Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 4-5pulls isn't going to get you anywhere close to a real tune. The numbers they come up with on the dyno are never acurrate anyway. They can vary a number of inputs to make it read whatever they want. It's a racket.
You need to tune WOT LAST... .... Everything before WOT is where you spend most of your time driving. It comes first.
Ok.. I'm going to finish taking pictures of this fuel pump assembly and post them for you guys so your not paying 300.00 for a junk pump and sending unit from A-zone or Advance.

 

Hope this helps someone who wants to do a cheaper better fuel pump for the sending units like this one. The Warbro 255lr/hr pump is 99.00 through www.fullthrottlespeed.com
Here's the process.
Dis-assemble with screwdriver. Push in the two tabs on each side of the slide in plastic center section.. it comes apart. Remove all old parts from inside.. including the black plastic line/rubber gromits ect. Gut everything.
I put the pump back in the black rubber jacket that was on the old pump. It sets the right depth for the new one. It's snug.. .but it'll go on. Light oil might help slid it on.
The pump comes with all hose/clamps/wire harness adaptor. Plug and play.
I cut approx 1/4 to 1/2" off the hose it comes with since the pump is on "springs" and you have to push it down some in the tank.. By cutting that small peice off it pre-loads the springs and it shouldn't kink the hose when you put it in the tank. If you leave it too long there's a chance when you push it down into the tank it could fold too far and kink the rubber feed line......
That's really it. I filed the top of the sending unit by where the wires plug in so I could get the screwdiver/clamp on a little deeper....
Hope that helps,Scott~

All apart and gutted (above)

This is all the stuff you won't need (above)

All parts... tools old/new and kit.

This is almost together. Need to cut that much off the hose (excess to load the springs)
Then slide it all back down into the housing and make sure the fuel sock(Strainer) is at the bottom. Click the wires together and it should look like this.(below)

Here it is all together and with the box part number for you. That is how much hose I cut off the end to pre-load the springs.
Shouldn't take much longer than 15-20min to do this.
~Scott

 

Very cool!

Did you notice any difference in how the pump installed into your tank? I would think you would want to reference how much the sending unit compressed initially, then remove a bit less than that amount from the rubber hose. That hose isn't going to flex like the original accordian style plastic hose.

 

That's about how much I took out of mine. This is a buddy's that he gave me to do for him.
That plastic hose grows over time... it starts out small but it sure ends up a few inches longer over time with exposure to fuel.
The rubber EFI hose that's pictured will "give" a little if you need it to. I don't have the tank here to double check but I'm going off what I did with mine.
Just wanted to mention to anyone looking at doing this that if it's left too long it could bend over and pinch the line. Some tanks may have different depths. Just check while putting the sending unit back in and you'll be fine
~Scott

 

Scott... Your avatar is hypnotizing me

 

I put some other interesting one's you can copy and use.

Hopefully they attatched.

Since All our stuff is turbocharged.. I'm almost Immune to boost... Na.. just kiddin...

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[IMG]local://upfiles/8222/02C31618C395462EB5D067831BE0E451.gif[/IMG]

 

That's exactly why I asked.

 

scott, can you post a schamatic of your fuel injection wireing? i have been thinking of a rearmount turbo. i am interested in how you wired up those injectors on that marine manifold. i can do it myself, but just need to know what wire goes were? another thing, can i do this manifold change before i do my turbo without a computer retune. i would think that my ecm should still work with this manifold, right? thank you.



also, what about the map, and fpr?