The complete tire mount assembly cost me about $100 but that's going to vary depending on where you get it from. That alone is what is going to determine what the entire job costs you. Everything else (stainless hardware, black silicone, etc) should cost you no less than $20.

 

I'll second that estimate on the cost by saying that $100 for the mount and the liftgate bracket is hopefully the upper end. When I was shopping around for one, the only one I could find was for $100. They did throw in for free an airbag sensor though so perhaps more like $80 for my case? I did see that at the U-pull yards in Spokane they'd sell them for about $25, that is if you could find a Blazer that still had one on it.

 

So less than $200 bucks... Sounds great, thanks y'all

 

I'm looking at doing this in the Spring.
So far, I've spent 20 for the carrier, and maybe $6 for a can of hammered black spray paint. I have some black silicone already, but still need all the hardware.

 

I would see about a thin rubber mat to put in between the carrier hinges and the body of the truck. Itll help seal it to the truck, and help prevent any liquid into running into the drilled holes. I found my silicone did not last long after I applied. So I was glad to have installed that rubber. As well, if you have the one piece tail gate, CUT THE BRACKET TO FORM AROUND THE HANDLE, I cut it flat, and the bottom rubber of the swing portion does not line up right. It rattles like a loose muffler. I will post a picture tomorrow of mine.

 

How is this fairing now in 2023?

 

I have not installed my rear spare-tire mount yet so I have nothing to report.

I can share the thoughts I've had on how I'd do the mounting.

This is what I'm considering doing:

• Fabricate metal plates with the nuts for the mounting bolts to install on the inside of the body sheet metal. I might or might not secure these plates with automotive metal panel adhesive. I was able to find an NOS internal bolt mounting frame for the lower bracket but not the upper. After I got it I realized that because the sheet metal is thin, it would be easy to make one of these by forming some 1/4 steel to the inner surface, using the exterior hinge brackets as a template to drill the bolt holes and then with the nuts on the bolts through the hinge and custom formed plate, weld the nuts in place. This would replicate the OEM internal bracket that is only sheet metal itself. But first I'd have to learn to weld or bribe a friend to do it for me. BTW, the lower internal mounting plate with the nuts cannot be retrofitted, at least very easily, as far as I can tell. It can only be installed during the building of the vehicle.
• I would add a loose chain with a clip or small carabiner as a back-up to the primary latch mechanism to prevent the tire and arm from swinging out accidentally.
• I'd make a rod that I could use to prop the swing-arm open at a bit more than 90 degrees so that I can back my boat trailer up with the lift-gate open so I can better see down the boat ramp
• I will definitely do a proper job painting it.
• I'll add a thin layer of tape between the hinge bracket and the outside of the sheet metal to act as a water seal. I found this tape on the inside surface of the hinges on the spare tire bracket I purchased.
• I might try to lower the tire mounting position with a plate with new bolts to preserve visibility out of the back.
• An option for once it is mounted is to find a way to mount recovery gear or a gas can to the spare tire rack too.

Thoughts?

 

I'll add my experience with doing this mod on my 1996 4 door Blazer.

• I did the mod in 2011, and drove the truck through 2015 when I sold it. I had no noticeable ill-effects of the mod. I personally loved the look of it, and the spare tire was much more accessible.
• I used 2 stacked wide fender washers (approx 3" across) followed by a standard washer on each bolt. The fender washers flexed to mould to the body curves, which is what they are designed to do. After looking at the inner body structure, I decided I didn't want to modify that any more than necessary. Leaving it as is seemed better for strength than cutting it out to put in a bigger mounting bracket inside the fender.
• I did use a 2" hole saw to make access holes in the inner body structure to install the bolts against the fender skin, and I think this is the best method.
• I used a rubberized foam gasket between the brackets and the body panels, with a bead of RTV auto silicon coating the edge. After 4 years parked outdoors pretty much the whole time I had not disenable rust on the body/brackets. I believe this also helped with eliminating the possibility of rattles and vibrations.
• I never got around to it, but lowering the tire on the bracket by 2" would have made opening the rear glass without unlatching the tire rack, and it would have made the view out the rear window better.
• Christine's idea of having a secondary backup to the primary latch is a great idea.