'92 Jimmy - what's the shear strength of iron oxide again?
#1
'92 Jimmy - what's the shear strength of iron oxide again?
Bought it for $1400 and basically, it's a total rustbucket. Also, I've never done body work before. Yay me!
Here's the list of what I need to do so far:
New fenders - the current ones are holding on by a couple bolts at the top and some sheet metal screws put in by the previous owner/abuser
Rocker panels are rusted through on both sides
Doors have a nice patina of rust on the bottom at least, I was too afraid to poke at it to see if it went all the way through (it probably does)
Various small patches are rusted through around the bottom edges of the body
Surface rust on the chassis
My questions are:
What would be the best way to learn how to use an oxy-acetelyne torch? I inherited one with my workshop (used to be an auto body shop) but haven't the slightest clue how to use it or any other welding tool.
Should I bother patching up the doors, or would ones off of a junkyard car be better?
What's the best way to get at all the rust inside the rocker panels where they haven't yet rusted through? I really don't want to weld a patch on only to see another hole open up a year from now.
Is the surface rust on the chassis a big deal or should I just leave it? I plan on driving this thing for another five or so years, barring any major mechanical failures, but doing an off-body resto would take forever with my day job being what it is. Or would cheating by going at the parts I could reach with a wire wheel and then spraying a coat of por-15 be enough?
Here's the list of what I need to do so far:
New fenders - the current ones are holding on by a couple bolts at the top and some sheet metal screws put in by the previous owner/abuser
Rocker panels are rusted through on both sides
Doors have a nice patina of rust on the bottom at least, I was too afraid to poke at it to see if it went all the way through (it probably does)
Various small patches are rusted through around the bottom edges of the body
Surface rust on the chassis
My questions are:
What would be the best way to learn how to use an oxy-acetelyne torch? I inherited one with my workshop (used to be an auto body shop) but haven't the slightest clue how to use it or any other welding tool.
Should I bother patching up the doors, or would ones off of a junkyard car be better?
What's the best way to get at all the rust inside the rocker panels where they haven't yet rusted through? I really don't want to weld a patch on only to see another hole open up a year from now.
Is the surface rust on the chassis a big deal or should I just leave it? I plan on driving this thing for another five or so years, barring any major mechanical failures, but doing an off-body resto would take forever with my day job being what it is. Or would cheating by going at the parts I could reach with a wire wheel and then spraying a coat of por-15 be enough?
Last edited by rocknroadie; 06-01-2010 at 02:06 AM.
#2
Home depot sells a book on gas welding/cutting. Worth the investment. Never go above 7 psi on the acetelyne gage For welding/brazing equal pressures work well but never over the 7 psi for acetelyne. Never store acetelyne on it's side.
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