I want to start doing my research now and compile all I find to get me ready for spring. First things first, I want to do the headliner and the carpet in the jimmy. Is there a source that sells pre-molded carpet and headliner for a 4 door first gen jimmy/blazer? Seems all I can find is for 2 doors, and not the color I am needing.

 

I know LMC has both but their BS oversized shipping on anything bigger than a leafspring bushing has me boycotting them as much as I can.

ACC carpet is the only place I deal with. Had problems with other places on "direct fit" carpet for my 69 gmc. Once I ordered from them and the almost no trim direct fit I was sold.

Is the backer for your headliner trashed cause it might be cheaper to have it redone. Even if the backer is gone I'd get a junkyard one and have it covered.

I'd ask if ya called ya local upholstery shop but if yours are like the one I got local they want $300 for a basic headliner recover. I've been stealing their business by charging $50 labor as long as the backer is good. Their wait is 1 week and mine is 2 days unless I have to repair the backer, still have yet had one take longer than 4 days. 3 years I've only had one come back and that turned out to not be my fault, he ripped it with a fishing lure. Wish I had a way to build a bigger vacuum former so I could make abs backers.

 

the backing on my headliner is in perfect shape, just the headliner is extremely dirty. is it hard to wrap one?

 

If this dumb redneck can learn it anybody can.

Takeing fer granted you can get it out and in....

Peel off the material. Then the fun part of cleaning the backer. I use a soft wheel brush to SOFTLY scrub most of the foam/glue off. Then a wadded up newspaper rubbed on it will get most of the rest. You don't have to scrub it down to bare backer but you want all the loose stuff gone. Then lay the material out on the backer and center it up. I start at the front (ocd) and fold the material half back. Spray your glue on both the backer and material, let tack, spray, let tack (I do this 3 times [ocd again]) then once tacked slowly start rolling the material from the center to the edges. This is where ya careful cause once the 2 touch its done. Then do the back half. I like leaving it laying upside down for 15-20 minutes going back every few and pressing it down smoothing it out.

Now flip it over and I normally do the front and back edges first (ocd again). Do the 3 spray tack and fold it over starting in the center and work out leaving about 6 inches from the corners. Headliner material stretches so you don't want a big thick edge but you don't want it pulled so tight it tries to pull loose. Clothespins help hold the folded over edge while it dries. I use cheapo harbor freight plastic spring clamps with the headliner between 2 strips of cardboard.

I then suggest going to the back edge since its your first. That edge is under a trim piece so if you booger a corner up at least its hidden and give you practice. Spray/tack again and then start at the center leaving 6 inches from the side. Now the fun part, the corners. This is trial and error on the degrees of the corners and vee cuts but you want the tip of the vee about 1/8th inch from the edge of the backer. The sharper the scissors the better, don't use your kitchen shears or those rusted pair hanging in your shop. Work one side, the other, and swap back and forth till its flat with no kinks. The first corner you'll learn what don't work and what does. The 2nd corner you'll learn better. Just remember the back is supposed to look bad as long as it makes the under side look good. That underside looks are between you and the next guy recovering it and he won't care how pretty it is. Now for the front, done the same way but the underside needs to be prettier since you will be looking at it.

For the visors cut 3 slits, one from each screw hole to the center with a sharp (I suggest new) razor blade for the dome light cut and X from each corner to the center. Leave a gap from the edge of the backer to the cut of 1/8th inch just like the vee cuts. Fold it back and the glue on it alone normally holds it until the light gets put in. You can spray/tack the back side if it helps you sleep. I leave the edges clamped for 15-20 mins to let it set before I reinstall.

Hints and tips:

Buy a brand new good pair of scissors. Cheap ones just **** ya off when they don't cut worth a crap.

The clips on the front edge I haven't found a good way to get them to release. I have the tool made for them and it doesn't work. They will try to pull out of the backer and tear it to crap. Best thing I've found is sticky backed indoor/outdoor velco. Ill stick some strips down on the backer and sew it to the backer. The other side sticks to the inner roof. Newer chevys use this same way now. Use masking tape to cover the velco while ya spraying the glue to keep it from getting gummed up. Also trim the material around around this (shouldn't have to be said but...) If you cover the velco it won't stick to the roof.

Tears and cracks in the backer can be fixed with duct tape. Not the cheap plastic stuff with a duck on it. The stuff you want is aluminum backed and once stuck aint going nowhere. If you don't stick that stuff right the first time just leave it and tear off another piece.

The best easy to get glue is 3M super 90 DO NOT try super 77 it will let go in the summer and you'll be doing this again. I use glue I spray out of a gun now but started out with spray bombs from lowes.

Clear as mud yet?? Ya need any help ya know I check the planet more often than here so if you need an answer now pm me over there. Ill try to remember to get back and check this if you post questions over here. Good luck, if ya was closer I'd tell ya to bring it over and I'd let ya do it while I watch letting ya learn while I do my mechanic work.

 

I am blown away. You must have been typing that out since I responded on how to do it, GREATLY appreciated. I am bookmarking this. Thanks so much.

 

Naw didn't take me but a min, done on a blackberry torch to boot.