My Blazer got caught in a hail storm about 10 years ago. Whoever did the repair wasn't too particular about the clear coat and it's been peeling off on the fenders. Here is a pic.

I saw where Christine feathered the edge and sprayed clear and got a good result. I'd like to try that but when I see how pale the paint is it doesn't seem like a layer of CC can bring the color back. Maybe it's been exposed too long? Or is this normal base coat color?


Edit: a A razor blade got rid of the loose CC. I tried to feather the edge but only succeeded in sanding through the base, so I sprayed Duplicolor perfect match. This was,was pretty perfect.

After spraypainting (including the ragged edge) came the 500-1200 wet sand (wished I had finer). To clear, two lightI coats and a medium, which I let dry only one minute so it would be tacky. Then a heavy coat, holding just a few inches off, wait another minute then more close CC. Got one drip and a CC shinier than the original!
Dry overnight, a rubbing compound workout, some polishing compound on a 2000rpm polisher. Done.

biggest headache was oversprsy. If you try to tape it off you wind up with a line as bad as the old clear coat line. I think it's best to let the overspray fall where it may and then use rubbing compound to get rid of it. YMO, a non-expert.

 

Exactly like my car I don't know why a lot of blazers the clear coat peel off. For me I take it to paint workshop and now they will do full body paint I think it will be better then spray clear coat on it because it is big area and may be your paint damaged and faded because a long time there are nothing protect the paint <<< because there is no clear coat.

 

I did some of my own clear coat repair a couple years ago. I had it peeling away from the bottom of my driver's side rear window. I tried to mask it off but I still had over spray that resulted in small droplets. I was able to sand it all down using sandpaper with the final grit being like 5,000 that I found at Autozone. With a whole panel you can mask off, you would not have the same issues I did when I tried to feather in my repair with the rest of the panel.

If you are on a budget, you might try it yourself.

BTW, something I just learned recently, from of all places model car builders, is the importance of having a warm environment when you paint; the paint itself, the air, and the surface being painted. Especially if the air is cold, you get droplet forming before they hit the surface resulting in a rougher surface. For the paint, they warm it up in hot water from the sink.

 

The matte touch of the color under the clearcoat is normal. It will also depend on how it has been applied. Seems that several years have had this problem with the clearcoat not bonding properly to the color.

A known problem also for other manufacturers. Looks like mostly red and blue/green colors are affected. (Means nearly all - LOL RGB...)

I could only guess as several manufacturers ran into this with clearcoat coming off after 15 - 20 years when they switched from the solvent based to water based colors. Prominent examples from over the pond are PORSCHE, FIAT. Something to do with control of the process. Clearcoat is normally 2 component stuff.

Paintshop suggests minimum of 1200 but not finer than 2000 to just give it a touch of wet sanding. This is high risk, because if the color is worn down too much you could cut through into the primer and then to get it right you would need to re-apply color first. Metallic color matching - a nightmare on a fender. No more spot repair then.