Removing spare tire rack
#1
02-11-2007, 11:04 PM
Removing spare tire rack
I was curious if anyone has ever took the rack that holds the spare tire off the back?
How much work is envolved filling the holes etc?
How much would a bodyshop charge?
Any input would be appreciated.
How much work is envolved filling the holes etc?
How much would a bodyshop charge?
Any input would be appreciated.
#3
02-12-2007, 12:18 PM
RE: Removing spare tire rack
Its not that bad to remove, but to cover up the holes (the right way) and then paint can be spendy via a body shop.
What you can do if you are able and/or willingis this:
1) Remove mounting bolts (torx bit)
2) clean up surface areaand use 80 grit sand paper to rough up the area then use paint prep cleaner
3) get a small can of Metal-to-Metal (this is an epoxy metal filler the plus to this is that a magnet will stick to this when dry where as bondo it wont)
4) fill holes with it and let it dry about 2 days to cure (due tothe amount used to fill in the holes)in a warm & dry area (due to the metal-to-metal will rust just like a metal patch)
5)Tape off and mask area not to be painted
6) Get a can of color matched paint (dealership for paint chip repair), can of etchingprimer (or sandable primer works too),and a can of clear coat
7) scuff it up with some 120 and/or 240grit sand paper (wet is better to do this with but dry will do) - small areas you can block sand over using a DA sander or other like type orbital sanders.
8) Reclean with paint prep cleaner
9) Put on 2 to 3 coats of primer (let each layer fully dry first)
10) use some 320 fine grain wet or drysand paper to smooth it (do this lightly do to you dont want to make any ripples and use a sanding block)
11) clean again with paint prep cleaner (let dry)
12) Use paint chip repair can of paint and put on 3 light coats (let it get tacky between coats about 20-45 min between coats)
13) Let fully dry before applying clear coat (here you can opt to wet sand it if you want to ensure a smooth surface)
14) then apply 3 coats of clear coat (again let get tacky between coats about 30 min avg time at 70 degree room temp) - once dry you can lightly wet sand again here to make sure no over spray spackle can be felt with 320 fine grit
15) once fully dry buff it out to your liking
supply cost:
Primer $6 per can
Clear coat $12
Paint $8
Sanding paper $4 (multi pack comes with 80, 120, 240, 320)
Sanding block $3 (or can use a smallblock of 2x4)
Metal-to-Metal $8 (small can)
pack of plastic putty wedges $3
Cleaner $10
As you see this is labor intensive. But most body shops will use bondo only. And that stuff just yea we wont go there. Its the paint prep and then dry time that takes the longest. And seeing as its a small area, does not pay for a paint booth (a dust free room would work better heated to about 85 degrees).
I use to do spot jobs, rust repair,and custom stuff for used car lots. Now I just stick with it for hobby due to I like to do other things with my time.
What you can do if you are able and/or willingis this:
1) Remove mounting bolts (torx bit)
2) clean up surface areaand use 80 grit sand paper to rough up the area then use paint prep cleaner
3) get a small can of Metal-to-Metal (this is an epoxy metal filler the plus to this is that a magnet will stick to this when dry where as bondo it wont)
4) fill holes with it and let it dry about 2 days to cure (due tothe amount used to fill in the holes)in a warm & dry area (due to the metal-to-metal will rust just like a metal patch)
5)Tape off and mask area not to be painted
6) Get a can of color matched paint (dealership for paint chip repair), can of etchingprimer (or sandable primer works too),and a can of clear coat
7) scuff it up with some 120 and/or 240grit sand paper (wet is better to do this with but dry will do) - small areas you can block sand over using a DA sander or other like type orbital sanders.
8) Reclean with paint prep cleaner
9) Put on 2 to 3 coats of primer (let each layer fully dry first)
10) use some 320 fine grain wet or drysand paper to smooth it (do this lightly do to you dont want to make any ripples and use a sanding block)
11) clean again with paint prep cleaner (let dry)
12) Use paint chip repair can of paint and put on 3 light coats (let it get tacky between coats about 20-45 min between coats)
13) Let fully dry before applying clear coat (here you can opt to wet sand it if you want to ensure a smooth surface)
14) then apply 3 coats of clear coat (again let get tacky between coats about 30 min avg time at 70 degree room temp) - once dry you can lightly wet sand again here to make sure no over spray spackle can be felt with 320 fine grit
15) once fully dry buff it out to your liking
supply cost:
Primer $6 per can
Clear coat $12
Paint $8
Sanding paper $4 (multi pack comes with 80, 120, 240, 320)
Sanding block $3 (or can use a smallblock of 2x4)
Metal-to-Metal $8 (small can)
pack of plastic putty wedges $3
Cleaner $10
As you see this is labor intensive. But most body shops will use bondo only. And that stuff just yea we wont go there. Its the paint prep and then dry time that takes the longest. And seeing as its a small area, does not pay for a paint booth (a dust free room would work better heated to about 85 degrees).
I use to do spot jobs, rust repair,and custom stuff for used car lots. Now I just stick with it for hobby due to I like to do other things with my time.
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