Okay, thank you. And for the last post, I understand everything you said and really have no argument to most. This isn't my daily driver, so the time it takes to complete isn't really a worry of mine. My dad is a mechanic who specializes in automotive electrical applications, so I think we should be alright there when it comes to wiring, although to be honest I'm not quite sure of what you mean by the wiring is going to be terrible, so far I'm doing the majority of this project without my dad, but we(together) already have the wiring harness laid it and clean. Now I'm sure that it will take some tweaking, but for the most part it looks fairly simple(as far as simple and wiring can go together). I really don't see too many difficult cons about this swap, granted I'm not done yet and that has room to change. I appreciate everything I have been taught and will keep everyone updated. Currently I'm in the middle of replacing that vacuum switch on top of the transmission and the input shaft seal. After this I'll be cleaning the engine bay to the point where I would be able to eat an omelet off of it. Then I'll drop the motor in(whe never the hell it gets delivered) after cleaning and painting it, then begins the tweaking.

Edit: can anyone please list every sensor a carb motor will have on it, we need to know for our wiring harness.

 

My motor is set to come in early next week, and with a busy schedule lately due to getting closer to leaving for bootcamp, I haven't had a ton of time to work on it, but I've seem to run into a problem. I'm trying to put in my new motor mounts, but I can't seem to figure out how to remove the lower all metal portion of the mount. There's a bolt and a nut, but the nut doesn't seem accessible. If anyone could push me in the right direction, that would be awesome.

 

A basic carb engine doesn't have many sensors it only has temp sensor ther than theres a ported vacuum switch and the egr which you can do with out.Should be pretty simple.
So question did you remove the computer for the old engine and transmission.Is so the engine harness would be simple.
I guess my engine swap was different than yours because my enine I was going to use was cpi not the sfi.I was told that swapping these two engines would be difficult because all the harness was entertwind with lights and other electrical systems.Realy don't see how as there should be a harness from the computer to the trans and engine with all the oher wiring be separate.IDK if you will run into this problem or not?Keep us updated.

 

I am actually using my computer out of my blown motor and using that to control my transmission

 

Okay, sorry for all of the questions, but when people talk about the Blazers rear end not being strong enough for a v8, do they mean the hears or the actual rear end itself? Thank you.

 

They are talking about the 10 bolt 7.625" rear differential. It's the most common rear end used in blazers. When you get your truck running and you hear a pop and a grinding noise. That means your rear diff came apart. I'm in the middle of swaping mine.

 

I appreciate that quick response and the info. So what should I look for? Like what would be a good new rear diff without going too expensive

 

Brand new diff = too expensive. How many miles does yours have on it? Is your blazer a ZR2 or a jimmy high rider package? Start by removing the cover to change the fluid and check the magnet on the cover. Hopefully there's one there. Mine did not have one. What year is yours? Changes were made to 1999 + models.

 

Mine is a 1995 blazer 4wd. I'm pretty sure it's just the base model, although it does have a 2 inch body lift, although I highly doubt that makes a difference. It has about 162,000 miles on it

 

I'll assume you have bigger tires as well. I have to agree with the people who are telling you to upgrade. There's a lot of threads here for research. Check out what you have also. Someone may have gone through it already.