Thanks for that. Is there any adjustment for that cable? All I could see was pedal mechanism removal, which might be what I have to do.

 

I don't recall a cable adjustment for length. There is the "equalizer" adjustment if I remember correctly. I'm guessing that one makes sure that there is the same pull on both of the parking brakes.

If the cables have stretched, which I guess could happen, then they might have to be replaced.

Sorry, that is the best I can remember.

 

OK, yeah, it's not stretched, the cable is about 1/4" too short and has the driver's side brake on a little at the minimum, which makes for tough R&R. I'm wondering if I could just loosen the pedal mechanism a little and give it some slack until I get the rotor on.

 

Can you loosen the equalizer mechanism; where the single cable from the brake pedal mechanism meets the two that come from each brake?

 

I have it soaking in Kroil and I should be able to but I'm not sure it will give me any slack on that driver's side cable. I'll give it a shot.

 

I don't know what the problem is/was but I was unable to just make the rotor go on over the new brake shoe. It seems I could not get the cable to lengthen and let up enough so I machined the end off of the adjuster, which still would not let the rotor slide over the new shoe. The old shoe had to be hammered off and destroyed that top clip in the process but is otherwise in good shape. I laid the new shoe in the rotor on the floor and it would not go in without squeezing it together. I'm thinking that maybe the rotor is out of spec? The right side went together as it should. So...after machining the adjuster down the old shoe went on as it should have so that's where it is. The right brake locks up on the driveway but the left one does not Is it possible that the cable is rusted internally and frozen fast?