I am trying to install the new CV Axle in my 99 4-door Blazer 4x4. I get it past the retaining ring on the inner axle, but it doesn't want to continue past the inner bearing. I verified that the old and new CV Axles have identical diameters. It seems to butt up to the inner bearing, but stops there. Has anyone had a difficulty as mine...any tricks to tell...am I even doing it correctly? There is a little play with the CV Axle, meaning up-down, left-right, so do I have to find that perfect spot that the CV Axle fits inside the bearing, and how much force is needed to slide it in the bearing? I do not want to damage the inner bearing, so any help would be appreciated.

 

I had that same problem last year. I could not find a reason why it was it was not going in. Because I had been intimidated by replacing the boot that had slipped off (I know silly of me) I had gotten a new axle instead. After I ruined the CV axle seal on the differential (this was the drivers side), I reinstalled a new outer bearing and cover with seal, disassembled the original axle, cleaned it, and installed a new boot with fresh grease. It went in perfectly and I haven't had any leaks from the axle seal (which was the original reason for removing the axle.) I think to get the original axle back in, I might have put a short piece of 2x4 on alternate sides of the inner joint and gently tapped on it with a small (8oz) hammer. (It is not easy to get in there and push, is it.)

I too measured and remeasured and could not find where the issue was. I felt like I was going nuts. I wondered if it was the spring retaining ring being mis-shapen or having too sharp of an edge and compared the new one to the old one. I even went so far to file the openings for the slots for the splines thinking maybe they were not the right size. You might check the sizing of the grooves for the splines too. Also do a visual inspection of the outer bearing of the diff to see if things are getting hung up on it. If you can, you might see if you can get the original axle back in.

I guess I could have taken the new axle back to the store to see if maybe it was a bad one but I never did.

What brand is the new one? I got mine at O'Reilly's but I can't remember the brand at the moment.

Sorry not be of more help.

 

I tried to visually inspect the bearing, and it looks alright, but like you I am dumbfounded. I purchased a Cardone 661312 for the right side. With some force, I got the shaft past the retainer, but no further like it is not going through the bearing. I am about to apply some grease on the inner splines of the CV Axle shaft and the bearing, and try playing with it for a bit. Like I said there is a little of side to side and up down play, that maybe I'm butting up to the bearing, but not being on center to go through it. Thanks for replying.

 

You might take some measurements of the depths of where outboard edge of the socket into which the splined shaft engages and the depth to the outboard edge of the bearing so you can confirm at what depth the axle is getting hung up. This might help diagnose what is going on.

 

Nothing is working...I give up!

 

Wiggle it and use a rubber mallet - works wonders

 

Man, I don't know why they changed from the bolt on style cv axles. Six bolts, super easy to replace. No beating required

 

Sorry, I don't give up...I will post what I've done until I have the truck running again. I took apart the inner axle up to the front differential. All the gears look good, no polished or discolored surfaces, no beveled gear edges, all thrust washers look intact and thicknesses spec out. Now with it taken fully apart, I can now check fitting with each part. First the inner axle. It fits perfectly inside the female splines all the way in. Next the axle shaft. I pulled out the new axle seal I already installed before disassembly, and tried the shaft in the axle housing with the inner bearing. It slides in fine with a little play. Now I took another new axle seal (I purchased two for both sides), and tried sliding it on the new axle seal by hand. Here was the problem all along...I couldn't even slide the seal on past 1/2"...the main seal surface (which is after the dust/dirt lip and about 1/4" wide right before the steel end cap) would not stretch enough to accommodate going over the axle shaft end. Even my friend, who is a mechanic, couldn't get the seal on and thought this was not correct. Same issue with the old cv axle...the seal whether it was the old one, the replaced one, or even the new one would not slide onto the old or new cv axle shaft. I spent 3 hours on the phone with Federal Mogul going over specs and measurements of the replacement seal, and even he agreed that something is not correct. He did suggest another seal, but didn't give a reason which prompted the different seal. All I got from him finally was, "Sorry, I couldn't help you further". Truthfully, the main sealing surface of the old one had an inner diameter of 1.558", the new one 1,555", and the cv axle shaft (old and new) outer diameter is 1.575" FYI.I also spent time with Cardone on the new cv axle shaft to verify its specs and length. All in all, it must be just muscle power like odat stated earlier in the post to push it on, but the engineer at Federal Mogul stated this may make the seal burn out early if it is too tight over its sealing surface. Well, back at square one. At this point, I am getting an AC Delco replacement seal to see if it installs a little easier. In the mean time does anyone have any lube suggestions on how to help the seal stretch or install with a little more ease? I did use the gear lube originally on the shaft end, but that didn't help. I'll keep everyone up to date as I figure it out.

 

Wow, that is nuts about the clearance problem. Yes, be sure to let us know if the AC-Delco part works better.

Good Luck!

P.S. If you get a chance to post pictures of what you are talking about, that would be great.